The Incredible Growing Shirt

Or, why it is so important to stay neck edges, armholes and other piece edges that might stretch.

"Stay stitching" is a single line of stitching, through one layer of fabric, to stabilize the fabric, preventing it from becoming stretched or distorted. When I take the time to stay stitch, I will do so 1/8" within the seam line - on a 5/8" seam at the 1/2" line. In some cases, I'll sew in a strip of seam binding or my personal favorite, an organza or chiffon selvage strip. It is important to stay neck and armhole edges, bias seam lines where a zipper is to be inserted, and in the case of my shirt also along the back waistline edge.

I laughed when our dressmaker, Cindy gave a lecture about the importance of "stay stitching" for her Sewing Educator Certification course, but my "Incredible Growing Shirt" is a prime example of why this simple step, that one might think is such a bore it might be eliminated, is so important.

Its surprising how much this shirt distorted. Its a lightweight silk jersey, which is not the most stable of fabrics, but this is pretty extreme growth from stretching. This shirt is also an example of when you might use a fabric for your rough draft that handles similarly to the fabric to be used in the finished garment. The best dressmaker I know collects different fabrics that are deeply discounted on dump tables for her muslin garment drafts, and has a collection of all sorts of weaves and weights.

I made this muslin, with just that, a woven cotton muslin. It has no stretch. I left the side seam open to get the muslin on and off and pinned it shut for fitting. The shirt needed to be pinched in at the waistline by about 1-1/2". Other than that it fit well.

Now what must I do to salvage this shirt besides wearing it draped over my shoulders and dripping off my body. First, re-establish its new shoulder line, which in this case pulls in about 2" of fabric from the front and back neck.

Second, I can open the side seam and pull in the back at its waistline, and taper into the hemline, but I think I'll create a poet's shirt pleat at center back. I actually like that more than its simple straight look. Sometimes, its best to loosen up and creatively progress the design along the way.