When I was 17.......

At different stages of life, our body takes on different characteristics. No matter how healthy, muscular or thin one might be, at 50 our boobs are a bit lower. I am sure I was not wearing a bra in that circa 1974 photograph. I can't remember if I even owned one then...... Our waists are wider, and well,... we don't need to carry on this line of thought any further...... On the other side of the coin, I don't think that there is a one of us who does not visualize ourselves as we were at 17. Just like the music we listened to, the clothes we wore and how we looked at that very transitional age sticks with us throughout our lives. That can be frustrating since our mind sees our body and how the clothes we wear as they were or might have looked in that fertile, prenuptial stage of life. When we put on the garment and look in the mirror, it cannot look the same as our visualization. I say to hell with respectful attire, sometimes, it is a good idea to let your visualization survive. See yourself as you were at 17. If you feel that way, it is how you will look, and avoid looking at yourself in the windows as you skip down the street. If you don't see yourself other than in your mind's eye, you are 17 still.....

SWAP at Artisans' Square II - Sand and Sea

I had an interesting conversation with my son this morning. He leaves on a flight to Tasmania tonight. Tasmania is home of some of the World's finest wool merchants. Alex is not on a buying trip. He is there to embark on a month long cruise aboard the Research Vessel Thomas G. Thompson in the rough waters South of Tasmania. He does know how to sew and probably made the mesh collection bags into which they will place the specimens to be collected from the deep. Alex had a lot to do before he left, not the least of which was get in his post-doctoral applications. In his own words, he has made "progress on multiple fronts", but was not yet packed, nor did he have one of the applications completed. Who says men cannot multi-task.

I had to scrap my first wardrobe plan, since FineFabrics.com sold out of the key pieces - the African Linen and Batik. Without these, the plan did not have the zip to keep me motivated sewing through 11 pieces.

Plan 2 is called sand and sea: Like my first wardrobe plan, the Missoni fabric found a new home before I made my ensemble. I was able to save 1/2 yard that is at this time destined to be a collar for a jacket to be made from the open weave silk muggah or a sweater coat out of the oatmeal jersey. That may be more versatile than the totally Missoni fabric suit, I had originally envisioned making.

During the past few weeks, I've completed the Organic bamboo with lycra dress. It reminds me of a dress, I lived in during my Senior year at High School and Freshman Year at college. Very soft on the skin when suffering from too much sun! Will post pictures of a young, thin Ms. Fine Fabrics later.

I've cut out and constructed the vest from the last yard remaining at FineFabrics.com of an absolutely unbelievable piece of Solstiss Lace, embellished with leather, metal, mini-springs, and embroidered with copper metallic thread. The vest is loose fitting and minimally constructed. I used a sleeveless, button down the front shirt pattern by Adri for Vogue Patterns, No. 2279 for the muslin.

I eliminated the side seam, which is a good trick to follow when seams will interfere with pattern more than they are required for fit. There is a more detailed instruction on this technique in "Smelling Silk and Roses".

I used the post-fitting muslin as my pattern. It is a good idea to lay the fabric over the pattern or muslin so that you can see how the embellishment will appear on the finished garment. Since there was only a 1 yard square of this lace in stock, I had to add a side front seam and be a little creative in placement of the pattern. It is always a good idea to sleep over a creative layout before cutting, since I was able the next day to piece it a bit differently, that gave me more length and enough of the scallop edge to use in finishing the center front edges. When working with lace it is sometimes desirable to hide seams by cutting around key design elements and embellishments, then over - and under - lapping the seam edge. To be able to optimally choose how the design elements lay over the seam, I marked the pattern seam with glass head pins, and left key design elements extending beyond the seam line so I could choose how to over- or under- lap them where the pieces were joined at the shoulder, which seam is pictured below,or along the side front seam pictured below. ecause of the metal pieces, I hand sewed the seams and the scallop edge to the center front edge using a running prick stitch. I hate to say that my stitches look nothing like those done by the embellishment sewers for Solstiss. On this piece of lace, they use a copper metallic thread, and each stitch adds to the design. It prompted me to take a closer look at the application of embellishment by other Solstiss pieces we have at FineFabrics.com, and the same is true with these. Make a note to think out how seam stitches can be worked into the design on next piece.

Left to do is the finishing of the armhole and neckline edges, and deciding upon whether I want to add some sort of optional center front closures. This leaves me hand work to do when sewing with students who are using the machines and tables.

I'm ready to cut out the Montana for Vogue Patterns pants to be sewn this weekend. And, with respect to the sand and sea halter and Montana Pants.....

People often ask me whether one should start from a pattern or the fabric. It really is sort of a chicken or the egg sort of question. I am of the fabric school of thought. Having a store full of fabric from which to choose on any single day is not the only reason. You can always find or modify a pattern to do what you would like to do. It is not always as easy to find a fabric that is exactly what you envision. And, frankly, I think it limits your creative options to be too specific when shopping for any fabric.

That being said, planning an 11-piece coordinating wardrobe offers its own challenges. Not the least of which was making my chosen designs fit within the boundaries of the fabric I had available to use. After a week of pinning and unpinning I made a pair of pants and top for which the combined patterns required 3-3/4 yards fit into 2.

In the meantime, I've come up with a couple more wardrobe plans in Navy, red, ivory and gold, and another for a client in deep brown, black, white, light taupe and gold. We'll post on these later also.

Like my son, I'm happiest when there are more projects on the deck than can possibly be finished, then orchestrating them to a crescendo conclusion.

Why do prices at FineFabrics.com appear to be more than some other on-line fabric sources?

There are certain fabrics for which I am always on the lookout. They include cotton and silk voile, cotton velveteens and silk prints, with sophisticated adult patterns, designer fabric that is both contemporary and classic. Quite frequently, our fabrics are pre-season goods. FineFabrics.com is now accepting delivery of items from some of the worlds' finest mills' 2010 collections. Although some of our exclusive collection of Solstiss Lace is in-stock, many more pieces are custom made-to-order for our clients. (If you are sincerely interested in these, please contact me for permission to access FineFabrics.com/Prive)

This year, I stumbled upon some cotton velveteens from one of my favorite vendors, whose Company has for the past 70 years represented a number of mills from Italy. The value of the Euro to the US Dollar on the day ordered required that I price these velveteens at $34.95. Not bad for their rich print and excellent fiber quality.


As I was anxiously waiting for their arrival from Italy, a vendor who sells remainder inventory to a discount on-line fabric source stopped by our Santa Barbara fabric store. Remainder inventory are fabrics that are left-over, or have not sold through other outlets. Sometimes you can find great classics at bargain prices from vendors that specialize in these goods, but you have to know what you are buying.

Our remainder inventory vendor pulled out of his suitcase swatches of some cotton velveteens that were pleasant in color, sophisticated in design, made in Italy....... They were even designer goods, "Made for Calvin Klein." I could feel my eyes get larger as I thought about the velveteens on the ship from Italy that I was going to have to sell for $34.95 per yard, and here were some "not bad" velveteens being offered to us at a whopping $2.00 per yard! Had I been had?

I composed myself and focused my eyes to discern the truth about these velveteens and their too good to be true price. These discount velveteens were not quite as exciting as those I was importing for FineFabrics.com. They were a little dated in design and color.... and that was the key question I had to ask. "How old are these fabrics?" My vendor responds, "Oh, these are from the 1970's. We're cleaning out our warehouse and have some things here at a good price from all the way back to the '50's."

Vintage hounds may find this interesting, but if you have ever visited a fabric warehouse in New York, you know that the fabrics are not preservecd like your mother's vintage wedding dress. And, if you have ever tried to use cotton thread from your grandmother's sewing box, you know that cotton deteriorates. And the poor, unwary sewer that falls victim to purchasing these velveteens from one of the discount on-line sources, at the bargain price I see of between $5.00 and $11.00, will have no bargain when the cotton deteriorates, shreds and splits after putting their time and creativity into their garment.

I've sat next to chain store and on-line discount fabric buyers ordering before. I've heard them say, "We'll take everything you have in quantity that is under $1.97", while I am there handling and inspecting each piece we are considering to buy.

We're as excited about finding a real bargain as anyone, but our vendors and clients know that we accept only 1st quality goods that are worth your time and creativity.

And, that is what you pay for at FineFabrics.com. We ask the questions for you.

Hong Kong or Bound Seams

Good quality metallic fabrics have a quality like peau de soie that is as light as a feather. Their wrinkles are part of their elegance. They both crunch and dance in the light. They are perfectly suited for making a gown.

They do not slip and slide. They are not difficult to sew. You do want to carefully finish all edges. The metallic fibers can shred, poke and itch if left loose.

In her "Fabric Sewing Guide", Claire Shaeffer recommends binding the edges of all pieces with a tricot seam binding. I can understand the logic, the stretch in the tricot makes it easy to keep the binding smooth. Traditionally, Hong Kong seams are made using a 1" bias strip of matching lining fabric. (More on making a continuous bias strip later.)

At Fine Fabrics we carry dressmaker quality rayon seam binding by Mokuba. It doesn't stretch, but it is soft so it does not change the quality of the fabric. It worked just fine for the task of binding the seams for my gown and will work just as well for binding the seam, facing and hem edges of any woven fabric.

I followed Claire Shaeffer's advice and bound all the seams on this gown before constructing. The gown is is also lined with silk charmeuse. Bound seams are my favorite finish. They are clean, elegant, tailored. They are one of those details that give a couture touch and make you smile when putting on the garment.

Bound seams take a little extra time. With seams that are pressed open you are stitching each seam 5 times, but the time is meditative: Sew the seam..... seam the binding to the seam edge..... press the binding out..... press the seam rolled over..... sew the binding in place.... repeat on the other side.....

With a bit more specificity a bound seam is made as follows:

Meet edge of seam binding to unfinished edge of seam, right sides together. Stitch as close to the edge as you can. I use an edge stitch foot, number 5 for my Bernina Sewing Machine, with needle set to the far left and tab running along fabric and binding edge to hold a perfectly straight line, while creating a very small seam. Press seam binding out, then roll around and under seam edge. Stitch again just inside the seam ditch. If the fabric is particularly at risk of shredding, I might use a zig zag stitch, which I did with the metallic fabric in this gown and I might also do with matka or tweed.

SWAP at Artisans' Square

At Artisans' Square I learned of "SWAP". It does not mean we are now bartering. The acronym stands for "Sewing with a Plan". It is a sewing concept developed by Timmel's Fabrics in Canada. It is great for motivating the sewing of projects that work into your wardrobe. For an impulsive, creative project fashion sewer like myself that is a very novel and useful way to learn to approach fashion sewing. The result of impulsive creativity, although fun, can be a closet loaded with interesting fashionable pieces, yet each morning it is difficult to decide what to wear. I decided to give SWAP a try.

Artisans' Square is currently running an international SWAP, with the blessing of Timmel's Fabrics, that challenges all between now and April 2009, to make a coordinating wardrobe. 6 tops, 4 bottoms, 1 jacket. All tops must work with all bottoms.

There are all sorts of discussions at Artisans' Square as to how best to approach your SWAP. I decided to start with choosing a group of fabrics that are both inspiring, will work for my wardrobe plan, lifestyle and personality.
Next step was to choose the specific patterns or designs I wished to make from each of the fabrics.

I created the storyboard at the top of this blog entry in Photoshop by:

1) Creating a storyboard file.
2) Scanning into Adobe Photoshop a very high resolution image of the line drawings on the back of each pattern I chose. Converting these to line drawing transparencies by selecting the background color range, then deleting. Then copying and pasting the line drawing to a layer in my storyboard file.
3) Copying and pasting the image from FineFabrics.com of each fabric I planned to use as a layer just beneath the line drawing in the storyboard file.
4) Using the magnetic wand tool to select the outline of the line drawing, selecting its inverse, clicking on the fabric layer, then deleting.
5) Linking the 2-layers together.

I do have a few extra pieces in my storyboard, but there is every reason to leave yourself open to decision making along the way.

It is now time to get sewing......

49th Annual NOGI Awards Gala Gown

For 3-years Martha and I have gotten together for our portrait in the gowns we have made for The Academy of Underwater Arts and Sciences Annual NOGI Awards Gala. Every year it seems that we both are finishing the gowns in our hotel rooms as we rush to get ready for the event.

Inspired by Martha's Valentino red gown she wore to the event last year, I went all out this year and made a GOWN!

I toyed with the idea of "embracing my belly", like a Ruben's portrait or pregnant child with crop top and skirt rolled below, but opted for conformity. It took 4 muslin drafts to get the pleats to lay and the fabric to bulge in just the right manner to hide, instead of accent my round middle.

The Armani gold silk with metal turned out to be a perfect choice for the task. Not only did it conform to the shape for which I was aiming; it also traveled incredibly well. I was able to roll it up to fit in my carry on, then tug the fabric back into place.

Every client and friend who entered Fine Fabrics was surveyed as to best color choice for accent lining and lace: Sophisticated gold lining gray Solstiss lace vs. lively watermelon lining Solstiss gold lace. The unanimous choice was the latter.

I balanced the activity of the right side, with lace overlays dripping down the left side and sublime back. I'll post details of this later.

When times are tough, its time to sew

Many of the mills that supply FineFabrics.com have survived World War II, the last Great Depression of the 1930's, World War I, the Long Depression that started in 1870, and even the Napoleonic War. There is something very humbling and ingratiating to look at love, life and business as a long term global adventure. And, if there is anything I have learned from my short time here, and the few lost loves, disappointments, and hardships I have had to endure, the very best therapy is activity. Let's get in shape - swim twice a day and twice as long - and let's get sewing.

This weekend's project: Gown based upon Vogue Pattern 2842. The rough draft made out of muslin revealed that pleats on both sides of front, that fold in along pelvis simply does not make it for those of us who are not flat bellied.

"Oh did you see that Susanne is pregnant!" (translated: "They must be awfully active and he must be mighty virile...." ) may not be a bad rumor to spread at the age of my husband and I.

Nonetheless, I settled for fashion conformity and dropped the pleats and pulled the side seam up 6" accordingly on the left side, creating an asymmetrical line, while keeping the volume at the hemline, dropped the bottom pleat on the right side so that the fabric drapes over and hides the, "I'm not really pregnant, it just looks that way," belly. To overcome the virginal wedding dress look, I'll show a little skin by not lining the godet.

For the gown, I'm using a crisp silk and golden mettallic taffetta with a scale pattern texture, selvage stamped Giorgio Armani, available from FineFabrics.com.




I have yet to decide on the lace to be used for the sleeves, bodice and godet. I'll either stay with Armani inspired colors with a gray Solstiss lace lined with golden silk charmeuse, or liven the look up with a pale rose colored and gold chantilly lace, also made by Solstiss, lined with a lively melon charmeuse. If I use the latter, I'll tier the lace that hangs in the godet, and drip some of the lace down the front of the gown.

Oh yes.... I do have a before the sky fell scheduled black tie event to attend in a couple of weeks, so the gown is needed.... Love, life, business and fashion will continue.