Binding Fringe on Tweed or Matka

One way to to achieve the perfect effect as you design your fashions is to create distinctive details. We've featured examples in earlier blog posts where clients of Fine Fabrics have used fabric selvages in unique ways to create trim that is perfectly coordinated, fresh, lively and delightfully apropos.

Tweed or matka fabrics, those that are woven using wide threads, are perfect for fringing. The large fibers of the warp, easily pull loose from their weft, and visa versa. The fabric is so easy to fringe that it is necessary to run stitches to stop the process, or the piece will deconstruct on its own.

It can be fun to use a complementary or contrasting trim to stop or set the fringed edge. However, the complexity of a tweed or matka can make it difficult to find a trim that not only matches, but also does not get lost or overpower the fabric.

The texture of the weave, the colors, and the body of the fabric that Ms. Fine Fabrics is working with here, made it essential that the trim not over power the finished piece, yet at the same time, it needs to have a deliberate presence, one that says "of course, it's perfect."

She chose to  construct a trim by deconstructing the fabric into fringe and bind it with perfectly coordinating strips of the fabric itself. Since the dominant colors in the fabric are dark, she decided to highlight the fringe by using a strip of the color that had the highest contrast, the only light color in the weave, the peach. As high as the contrast, it is subtle because it is the exact same color and texture as repeated throughout the weave iof the fabric.

She created the binding by cutting strips of the peach colored fibers, then laid them over the fabric at the point out where she wanted the fringing to stop.

Then using a zig-zag stitch set as wide as the cut strips, and thread the color of a dominant dark shade in the fabric, she secured the peach strips down to the fabric. 

To maintain a balanced proportion to the effect of the trim on the dress, she varied the fringe detail, a single row along princess and shoulder lines, double rows at the sleeve hem, three rows at the hemline and a collection filling the neckline.

Some tweed and matka with which this effect might be used currently available at FineFabrics.com, with more to come, are:

Searching for Valentino

It is not as easy as one would think to find how Valentino would use the lively and lush wool and cashmere fabrics that just arrived at FineFabrics.com. Sure, you can search Google for Valentino Cashmere images and up pops a reference to 629,000 images, but verifying that they are truly representatve of Valentino's work, that is the challenge.

Then, I made my way over to Style.com  where it was easy to pan through runway shows and pick out those that look as if they might be made using our Valentino cashmere blends.

Valentino Red Suit

Valentino Blue Coat

Valentino Blue Suit

The Valentino Blue Jacket reads as if it might be suede, but I think it would work well in cashmere. The drop shoulder line is very flattering for most, and could also be used over a dress made using a coordinating fabric.

For example, consider using the Valentino Red, Mint or Iris for the jacket, worn over a dress made using this paisley wool and silk challis that coordinates with all.

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Valentino Colors in Cashmere

I apologize for having stepped away from our blog to put some things in order at the store and an update and redesign of FineFabrics.com. I also apologize to those of you who had sent comments that have yet to be published. They were temporarily hiding from us, but that is now fixed. We have a number of inspirational and instructional blog posts lined up, starting with..... none other than,.... Valentino!

Now, I would not generally bring a wool and cashmere piece into the store at the start of the Summer sewing season, but when one of my very favorite vendors walked in with these colorful cashmere and wool numbers, complete with Valentino labels,..... I melted into their soft folds... Besides, if we start thinking about how to use these now, we can have the project finished when cold weather returns.

Valentino Red Cashmere

Valentino Blue Cashmere

Valentino Mint Cashmere

Valentino Fuschia Cashmere

Valentino Coral Cashmere

Valentino Iris Cashmere

Arrival of these exclusive fabrics prompted me to ask the question, how does Valentino use these?


Here is a start: Valentino 'Voulant' Wool and Cashmere Coat. 

Details, such as an assymetrical, ruffle front and ruffle collar, can be seen at Nordstrom.com, where we found this picture. 

Anyone who would care to chime in with more ideas, please let me know. Will have instructions as to where to post your answers later.

Relish in the Resolutions

We are proud to start 2011 with the launch of a new and improved FineFabrics.com, which we will be once again updating nearly every day! Our first featured fabric is a fabulous line of viscose and lycra knit prints, made for us by a very exclusive fabric printer in France.

These are a preview of what you will be seeing on the runways for Spring/Summer 2012!

I have started making a wrap dress, inspired by Vogue Pattern 8631, using our Tropical Destinations, Inviting and Rejuvenating in French Knit Print for our let's start the New Year living the way we are supposed to live vacation to Tahiti.

The pied piper called us just 2 weeks ago to invite us on an 11 night cruise through the Society Islands and Tuamotus aboard the Paul Gauguin. Instead of scrambling to finish a new wardrobe the night before leaving, I decided to let this dress be my first sewing project completed for 2011.

That is my New Year's resolution, to relish in life and all we do while living. Its not about the project's completion, but the process.

To that end, early this morning, before any other guests stirred, I started the year with a 2,000 meter swim in the infinity pool of the Beachcomber Intercontinental Hotel on Papeete, Tahiti.

Tired and still dehydrated from the 8 hour flight from Los Angeles, I had to fight to keep swimming. I had to keep reminding myself that there was no where else I had to be. No one was waiting for me to arrive at the office or store. I did not need to look to when my swim would have to end. I could keep swimming all day if I chose to. And with each stroke, I became stronger and more alive and enjoyed it more.

That is the way I will approach my sewing, and each thing I do this year. I trust it will be reflected in the ever changing offerings we will have for you at FineFabrics.com. I trust that you will enjoy the results.

Vests for Work and Play

As Fall arrives, and days and nights are getting cooler, a vest may be just the perfect piece to complete your outfit, while stylishly keeping you warm.

Vests can be casual, worn with jeans for play, or they can be dressed up and sophisticated, paired with slacks, a pretty blouse or nice shirt. Add details and accessories. Now you're ready for fun, for the workplace, comfortable and in style . . .

With this in mind, D.D. of Santa Barbara dropped in at Fine Fabrics. Her mission, to fashion a new vest for her husband, Peter.

She began her venture by perusing Fine Fabrics' new collection of wool fabrics, and the many new pieces arriving for Fall and Winter sewing.

She then compared her favorite picks with vests Peter already wears - a gray with prick stitch, a tiny hounds tooth with hunter green as its dominant color, and a deep Autumn rust with leather buttons.

She hoped to find just the right color and texture of wool so that she could complement his collection.

With a smile on her face, DD shared with me that she had made each one of the vests she brought in (proudly displayed here). She admits that her first attempt at vest making took a bit of refining. The most difficult part was getting all of the measurements right, so that the vest had a tailor made fit. After that, the other vests were a snap.

And, the fun in making any piece truly unique comes from playing with the details and subtleties of the fabric. Here, DD creates a one of a kind vest by using the selvage of the fabric as a perfectly coordinating trim. Quite frequently, the selvage is formed by the weft fibers (those running across the grain) wrapping around the side warp fibers (those running lengthwise). In terms of color match, using the selvage in this way works because the warp and the weft mingle, allowing for a mix of the fabric's hues. The wool heather DD used to make the vest on the right is a deep Autumn rust that blends perfectly with the leather buttons. The olive. which is barely noticeable in the body of the fabric, is dominant at the selvage and she astutely uses the selvage to trim the pocket edges.

For the new vest, after much consideration, she selected an Italian Gray Reversible Flannel, with a pin stripe on one face of the fabric and a box plaid on the other - just what was needed to complete Peter's collection of vests. We can't wait to see how DD uses the duplicity of this fabulous piece of wool from Italy.

As the cold weather comes our way, what will you need to complement your Fall wardrobe? -- Pipps writing for FineFabrics.com

Never Too Young For Silk

With the arrival of summer, comes graduations.

In this flowing dress made of watermelon silk charmeuse and pink chiffon, our young graduate transitions beautifully to the next stage, with dreams of her future . . .

The dress was co-created by mother, (S.S., Santa Barbara) and her graduating daughter, whose idea it was to braid bias strips of chiffon in coordinating colors for neckline trim and straps. The benefit of cutting the strips along the bias is that the fibers cross-link, to hold raw edges firm and simple, so they can be left modernly unfinished, and will smoothly transition around curves.

It's all in the details, and our dressmaking team brings together imagination and play to create softness and simple sophistication!

At Fine Fabrics, we feature 150 colors of silk in multiple weaves, including chiffon, charmeuse in 2 weights (19 and 30 momme)*, four-ply crepe, heavy georgette, and Italian-style duoppioni.

Silk, one of Nature's loveliest fibers, appeals to our visual and tactile senses and is known for its drape, attractive luster and simply luxurious feel.

When wearing silk, one revels in beauty, confidence, and a sense of possibility . . .

* Momme (pronounced "mommy") - Did you know that although most fabrics are measuted in thread count, silk is measured in momme weight, or mm.

A silk's particular momme refers to the calculated weight of a piece of silk fabric when measured at a standard 100 yards long and 45 inches wide.

For a piece weighing 19 pounds at that size, the calculated momme would be 19.

A silk's momme gives body to the fabric. When designing your creations, you can use this - giving life, flow and inspiration to fashion.

~ Check back with us as we will be uploading to FineFabrics.com new arrivals over the next couple of weeks.

Solstiss Lace Wedding Dress

Best wishes on this month's Solstiss showing and my heartfelt thanks for making my daughter's wedding dream dress come true.

Sincerely,

a.m., San Diego, CA


This beautiful gown was created for the Bride by her mother with fabric procured by Fine Fabrics from Solstiss.

Through August 31st, Fine Fabrics is hosting its 4th annual Solstiss Lace Show. We will post new pieces online daily, but there are hundreds to see. Please stop by our Santa Barbara store to personally experience the beauty and artistry of each piece. Be inspired, dream and create something magical!