Ms. Fine Fabrics for Fashion and Fun!

When A Flight to New York Was Fun and Exciting

2011-10-16T10:06:00.000-07:00

There was a time when jumping on a commercial airplane was a big deal. I had done it once before. A flight from Los Angeles to Salt Lake City in an attempt to learn to ski and to visit my friend, Lisa, who was attending the University of Utah. My long distance childhood travels were generally made in convertibles in which we followed Route 66 from California to Detroit to visit family and buy a new convertible.

My husband, Bob made his first trip on an airplane in 1959 when he and his family boarded a Lockheed Constellation travelling from Los Angeles to New York. They then boarded a ship for the trans-Atlantic journey and lived in Europe for a time. He recalls as a child watching the flames behind the engines, an experience which led to a lifetime of travel.

It was no wonder that within a month of our moving in together, he flies off on a business trip, but before he leaves, he handed me a ticket to meet him in New York. Nowadays one can find designer fashion just about everywhere. At that time, 5th Avenue was one of the few places one could find a collection of designer boutiques in one place. While Bob was conducting his business, I made my way there.

I have learned more about couture construction from turning designer garments inside out while in the dressing room. This method of education took on a new meaning moving in and out of the high fashion boutiques of New York. (Will have more on elastic casing later, as I recently used the technique I learned from within the Ralph Lauren dressing room on that trip.) My sole purchase was a red leather belt from Gucci that perfectly matched the silk dress I had made to wear to my 10-year high school reunion, that same year. It may have been the only time I entered a Gucci Store, although I did covet through a window recently a Gucci handbag.

Its no wonder that I couldn't resist adding to FineFabrics.com a collection of fabrics made for Gucci.

Leave it to Gucci to keep their logo subtly embedded in the design.

We'll be adding more new designer fabrics to FineFabrics.com from this collection and others.

Moulin Rouge for the Holidays

2011-08-01T08:16:00.000-07:00

More on the opening of 5th Annual World's Finest Lace Show.

M.F. of Santa Barbara, California and Ms.

Fine Fabrics are inspecting Cindy's

perfectly matching zipper insertion

and back seam.

Cindy wowed everyone with her 30's inspired black beaded number, made using Solstiss' Black Beaded Lace, and lined with Red Silk Duchesse. Full pictures of this beauty will be posted to the clients' creation pages of FineFabrics.com later.

L.G., of Letizia Alta Moda, Santa Barbara, California wowed and inspired everyone with her expert draping skills. Wouldn't you love to show up for holiday festivities wearing a dress made using this embellished flame patterned lace, with red silk duchesse train.

Stay tuned for more on the variety of interpretations available from Solstiss in this flame patterned lace, and others.

Royal Couturier Visits Fine Fabrics

2011-07-31T16:17:00.000-07:00

Fine Fabrics is honored to host its 5th Annual World's Finest Lace Show, featuring the haute couture collections from Solsitss, August 2 - 31. Our opening reception was Saturday, July 30, when a steady stream of oohs and aahs sang through the store throughout the day. Fashionistas from around the State attended, and toward the end of the day, C.M. of Santa Barbara, California brought her friend and fashion confidante, J.S to have a look.

J.S. had been a couturier for Queen Elizabeth and her sister when they were children. When C.M. asked J.S. if this outing to Fine Fabrics World's Finest Lace Show opening made her day, J.S. responded, "You've made my life."

More pictures from the opening reception of Fine Fabrics 5th Annual World's Finest Lace Show to be posted later and within the client creations section of FineFabrics.com

Please join us for Fine Fabrics 5th Annual Lace Show, open Tuesday through Saturday, 11:00 am - 5:00 pm, August 2 through 31. You'll be surprised as to who you might me there.

Overwhelmed!

2011-07-15T19:48:00.000-07:00

Its hard to believe that I left the last post up for so long without moving on. I could use the excuse that I've been overwhelmed with a lot on my deck, but anyone who knows me would say, "yeah."
In answer this week, I can say, "yeah. I am overwhelmed and you just wait to see what's coming down the pike to prove that this round of overwhelmed tops all others."

First on the list is July 30, 2011, opens Fine Fabrics 5th Annual Worlds' Finest Lace Show.

Cindy has been busy making a dress for the opening using:

with the same red duchess satin lining.

Pips is going to show some funk using a piece of rose tone and gold lace, a pair of jeans and coordinating with the finest piece of designer silk charmeuse:

And, well, my selection is understated this year. My favorite, a pair of palazzo pants using our very finest designer silk and wool blend paisley print:

and a shirt of my own design using a Solstiss mostly cotton lace:

In a peach that matches the paisley.

D&G eat your heart out. If I'm not mistaken they did use this pattern in one of their dresses.

Let's Hear it for the Maxi Dress Becoming a Classic

2011-06-16T21:20:00.000-07:00

I just discovered Facebook. Well, I didn't just discover Facebook, but I did call in the youth brigade, my niece's daughter Sarah to help work me through the set up and intricacies of Facebook so that we can most effectively work with it in sharing our couture adventures there as well. Please link through that you like Fine Fabrics on Facebook. It seems we need 25 likes to go live.

Within 24 hours of consumption, and I do see how Facebook can become a consumption this picture appeared, posted by my nephew:

Yes. That is a very young Ms. FineFabrics in her made for the senior prom at 14 years old maxi-dress. How appropriate that this picture should appear when maxi dresses are at their most popular since.

I was invited to the prom the day before by the friend, of the boyfriend of a friend, who needed a date. I ran home from school and popped out this maxi dress from fabric in my stash. I remember cutting out Simplicity Pattern 9944 on the living room floor, with the afternoon session of Felix the Cat playing in the background.

Found today at

http://pattern-world.com/images/Simplicity9446.jpg

My date was in an Elton John emulation phase and wore a top hat, tuxedo jacket, striped shirt and patched jeans du jour. Well it was 1971.

I've made one maxi dress since. I wore it to a "festive" birthday party. It was perfect for the occassion, and I have no idea why maxi-dresses are not classics within our wardrobes. They are so much fun and when in style, so appropriate.

In celebration of the maxi-dress revival we have added to our offerings the following maxi-dress perfect fabrics:

Let's hear it for the maxi dress becoming a classic this time around!

Print Dominance

2011-05-28T23:02:00.000-07:00

My first sewing blog post covered how studying a print before cutting can make a big difference in the results. I cannot under emphasize the importance of doing this when working with lively, bold prints, such as I used for my first project of 2011 - a jersey dress.

I learned this axiom the hard way. I had made a pair of pants and cardigan coat using an African print inspired fabric. The pattern was so busy I thought there no need to concern myself with matching. I didn't think about the importance of not matching. When the ensemble was complete, there were 2 big black Superman logo looking "S" patterns, one on each of my buns. We called them my super suzzy pants. I could only wear them with their matching coat.

So, when looking at this fabulous matte jersey print, you see that the royal blue swath of color is dominant. I was careful to lay the pattern pieces so that this dominant blue feature of the fabric was placed:

Along the right collar - to bring one's eyes to my face
Upper left shoulder - for balance
Center front hemline - to bring the eye down and offer a perception of length
On the left hip - to move the eye away from my belly.

And, nowhere near my buns!

More great lively matte jersey prints available at FineFabrics.com:

Binding Fringe on Tweed or Matka

2011-04-14T20:28:00.000-07:00

One way to to achieve the perfect effect as you design your fashions is to create distinctive details. We've featured examples in earlier blog posts where clients of Fine Fabrics have used fabric selvages in unique ways to create trim that is perfectly coordinated, fresh, lively and delightfully apropos.

Tweed or matka fabrics, those that are woven using wide threads, are perfect for fringing. The large fibers of the warp, easily pull loose from their weft, and visa versa. The fabric is so easy to fringe that it is necessary to run stitches to stop the process, or the piece will deconstruct on its own.

It can be fun to use a complementary or contrasting trim to stop or set the fringed edge. However, the complexity of a tweed or matka can make it difficult to find a trim that not only matches, but also does not get lost or overpower the fabric.

The texture of the weave, the colors, and the body of the fabric that Ms. Fine Fabrics is working with here, made it essential that the trim not over power the finished piece, yet at the same time, it needs to have a deliberate presence, one that says "of course, it's perfect."

She chose to construct a trim by deconstructing the fabric into fringe and bind it with perfectly coordinating strips of the fabric itself. Since the dominant colors in the fabric are dark, she decided to highlight the fringe by using a strip of the color that had the highest contrast, the only light color in the weave, the peach. As high as the contrast, it is subtle because it is the exact same color and texture as repeated throughout the weave iof the fabric.

She created the binding by cutting strips of the peach colored fibers, then laid them over the fabric at the point out where she wanted the fringing to stop.

Then using a zig-zag stitch set as wide as the cut strips, and thread the color of a dominant dark shade in the fabric, she secured the peach strips down to the fabric.

To maintain a balanced proportion to the effect of the trim on the dress, she varied the fringe detail, a single row along princess and shoulder lines, double rows at the sleeve hem, three rows at the hemline and a collection filling the neckline.

Some tweed and matka with which this effect might be used currently available at FineFabrics.com, with more to come, are:

Searching for Valentino

2011-04-06T17:08:00.000-07:00

It is not as easy as one would think to find how Valentino would use the lively and lush wool and cashmere fabrics that just arrived at FineFabrics.com. Sure, you can search Google for Valentino Cashmere images and up pops a reference to 629,000 images, but verifying that they are truly representatve of Valentino's work, that is the challenge.

Then, I made my way over to Style.com where it was easy to pan through runway shows and pick out those that look as if they might be made using our Valentino cashmere blends.

Valentino Red Suit

Valentino Blue Coat


Valentino Blue Suit

The Valentino Blue Jacket reads as if it might be suede, but I think it would work well in cashmere. The drop shoulder line is very flattering for most, and could also be used over a dress made using a coordinating fabric.

For example, consider using the Valentino Red, Mint or Iris for the jacket, worn over a dress made using this paisley wool and silk challis that coordinates with all.

Valentino Colors in Cashmere

2011-04-02T09:10:00.000-07:00

I apologize for having stepped away from our blog to put some things in order at the store and an update and redesign of FineFabrics.com. I also apologize to those of you who had sent comments that have yet to be published. They were temporarily hiding from us, but that is now fixed. We have a number of inspirational and instructional blog posts lined up, starting with..... none other than,.... Valentino!

Now, I would not generally bring a wool and cashmere piece into the store at the start of the Summer sewing season, but when one of my very favorite vendors walked in with these colorful cashmere and wool numbers, complete with Valentino labels,..... I melted into their soft folds... Besides, if we start thinking about how to use these now, we can have the project finished when cold weather returns.

Valentino Red Cashmere

Valentino Blue Cashmere

Valentino Mint Cashmere

Valentino Fuschia Cashmere

Valentino Coral Cashmere

Valentino Iris Cashmere

Arrival of these exclusive fabrics prompted me to ask the question, how does Valentino use these?

Here is a start: Valentino 'Voulant' Wool and Cashmere Coat.

Details, such as an assymetrical, ruffle front and ruffle collar, can be seen at Nordstrom.com, where we found this picture.

Anyone who would care to chime in with more ideas, please let me know. Will have instructions as to where to post your answers later.

Relish in the Resolutions

2011-01-01T14:46:00.001-08:00

We are proud to start 2011 with the launch of a new and improved FineFabrics.com, which we will be once again updating nearly every day! Our first featured fabric is a fabulous line of viscose and lycra knit prints, made for us by a very exclusive fabric printer in France.

These are a preview of what you will be seeing on the runways for Spring/Summer 2012!

I have started making a wrap dress, inspired by Vogue Pattern 8631, using our Tropical Destinations, Inviting and Rejuvenating in French Knit Print for our let's start the New Year living the way we are supposed to live vacation to Tahiti.

The pied piper called us just 2 weeks ago to invite us on an 11 night cruise through the Society Islands and Tuamotus aboard the Paul Gauguin. Instead of scrambling to finish a new wardrobe the night before leaving, I decided to let this dress be my first sewing project completed for 2011.

That is my New Year's resolution, to relish in life and all we do while living. Its not about the project's completion, but the process.

To that end, early this morning, before any other guests stirred, I started the year with a 2,000 meter swim in the infinity pool of the Beachcomber Intercontinental Hotel on Papeete, Tahiti.

Tired and still dehydrated from the 8 hour flight from Los Angeles, I had to fight to keep swimming. I had to keep reminding myself that there was no where else I had to be. No one was waiting for me to arrive at the office or store. I did not need to look to when my swim would have to end. I could keep swimming all day if I chose to. And with each stroke, I became stronger and more alive and enjoyed it more.

That is the way I will approach my sewing, and each thing I do this year. I trust it will be reflected in the ever changing offerings we will have for you at FineFabrics.com. I trust that you will enjoy the results.

Vests for Work and Play

2010-09-15T17:01:00.000-07:00

As Fall arrives, and days and nights are getting cooler, a vest may be just the perfect piece to complete your outfit, while stylishly keeping you warm.

Vests can be casual, worn with jeans for play, or they can be dressed up and sophisticated, paired with slacks, a pretty blouse or nice shirt. Add details and accessories. Now you're ready for fun, for the workplace, comfortable and in style . . .

With this in mind, D.D. of Santa Barbara dropped in at Fine Fabrics. Her mission, to fashion a new vest for her husband, Peter.

She began her venture by perusing Fine Fabrics' new collection of wool fabrics, and the many new pieces arriving for Fall and Winter sewing.

She then compared her favorite picks with vests Peter already wears - a gray with prick stitch, a tiny hounds tooth with hunter green as its dominant color, and a deep Autumn rust with leather buttons.

She hoped to find just the right color and texture of wool so that she could complement his collection.

With a smile on her face, DD shared with me that she had made each one of the vests she brought in (proudly displayed here). She admits that her first attempt at vest making took a bit of refining. The most difficult part was getting all of the measurements right, so that the vest had a tailor made fit. After that, the other vests were a snap.

And, the fun in making any piece truly unique comes from playing with the details and subtleties of the fabric. Here, DD creates a one of a kind vest by using the selvage of the fabric as a perfectly coordinating trim. Quite frequently, the selvage is formed by the weft fibers (those running across the grain) wrapping around the side warp fibers (those running lengthwise). In terms of color match, using the selvage in this way works because the warp and the weft mingle, allowing for a mix of the fabric's hues. The wool heather DD used to make the vest on the right is a deep Autumn rust that blends perfectly with the leather buttons. The olive. which is barely noticeable in the body of the fabric, is dominant at the selvage and she astutely uses the selvage to trim the pocket edges.

For the new vest, after much consideration, she selected an Italian Gray Reversible Flannel, with a pin stripe on one face of the fabric and a box plaid on the other - just what was needed to complete Peter's collection of vests. We can't wait to see how DD uses the duplicity of this fabulous piece of wool from Italy.

As the cold weather comes our way, what will you need to complement your Fall wardrobe? -- Pipps writing for FineFabrics.com

Never Too Young For Silk

2010-08-17T12:16:00.000-07:00

With the arrival of summer, comes graduations.

In this flowing dress made of watermelon silk charmeuse and pink chiffon, our young graduate transitions beautifully to the next stage, with dreams of her future . . .

The dress was co-created by mother, (S.S., Santa Barbara) and her graduating daughter, whose idea it was to braid bias strips of chiffon in coordinating colors for neckline trim and straps. The benefit of cutting the strips along the bias is that the fibers cross-link, to hold raw edges firm and simple, so they can be left modernly unfinished, and will smoothly transition around curves.

It's all in the details, and our dressmaking team brings together imagination and play to create softness and simple sophistication!

At Fine Fabrics, we feature 150 colors of silk in multiple weaves, including chiffon, charmeuse in 2 weights (19 and 30 momme)*, four-ply crepe, heavy georgette, and Italian-style duoppioni.

Silk, one of Nature's loveliest fibers, appeals to our visual and tactile senses and is known for its drape, attractive luster and simply luxurious feel.

When wearing silk, one revels in beauty, confidence, and a sense of possibility . . .

* Momme (pronounced "mommy") - Did you know that although most fabrics are measuted in thread count, silk is measured in momme weight, or mm.

A silk's particular momme refers to the calculated weight of a piece of silk fabric when measured at a standard 100 yards long and 45 inches wide.

For a piece weighing 19 pounds at that size, the calculated momme would be 19.

A silk's momme gives body to the fabric. When designing your creations, you can use this - giving life, flow and inspiration to fashion.

~ Check back with us as we will be uploading to FineFabrics.com new arrivals over the next couple of weeks.

Solstiss Lace Wedding Dress

2010-08-14T12:43:00.000-07:00

Best wishes on this month's Solstiss showing and my heartfelt thanks for making my daughter's wedding dream dress come true.

Sincerely,

a.m., San Diego, CA

This beautiful gown was created for the Bride by her mother with fabric procured by Fine Fabrics from Solstiss.

Through August 31st, Fine Fabrics is hosting its 4th annual Solstiss Lace Show. We will post new pieces online daily, but there are hundreds to see. Please stop by our Santa Barbara store to personally experience the beauty and artistry of each piece. Be inspired, dream and create something magical!

Lace Sleeves

2010-04-09T06:48:00.000-07:00

Sometimes a predictable use for a fabric is so predictable because it works. That is the case with using a very beautiful fine lace as sleeves and necklines on just about anything. After much consideration through the collection of lace available at FineFabrics.com, I decided that this black chantilly lace would work perfectly for sleeves and neckline of lively print silk jersey shirt made using Vogue Pattern 8636 by Marcy Tilton.

I plan to wear it with my new and finally completed black super 190 wool and cashmere, a very, fine and soft combination suit, made using my own design for the jacket and trousers using a vintage Yves St. Laurent pattern. Will post picture of the completed garment later.

Summer Blouse over Jeans

2010-04-07T09:21:00.000-07:00

I can see this soft cotton print made into a Summer blouse like Vogue Pattern 8657 worn with jeans. The key to your fabric choice on this one is the soft drape of a high thread count cotton.

Keep It Simple

2010-04-06T09:12:00.000-07:00

This piece of silk has texture, body, drape, and sophisticated color and design. Its everything I look for when procuring silk and cotton prints for FineFabrics.com. It could be used to make just about anything for Spring or Summer, blouse, dress, skirt..... My suggestion. Something simple that takes advantage of the drape and keeps it easy to match the pattern. Something like Donna Karan's Vogue dress pattern 1012.

Inspiration #3 - Opera Coat

2010-04-05T07:42:00.000-07:00

Spring can be bright, sunny and warm. Spring can be blustery. Spring can be cold and rainy. It seems as if it does not matter where you are, but Spring can bring the most variable weather. Spring can inspire us to sew a Summer dress, a cotton blouse, a tweed suit, or an Opera coat, a long, loose, fitting coat made using a luxurious fabric, such as this wool tapestry, with lurex (metallic threads woven throughout) for sparkle. Made in Italy and available at FineFabrics.com.

Consider making the coat using Vogue Pattern 8549. Love the collar and shoulder detail on this one. The wool tapestry has the body to support the collar, and a softness that will fall into the drape.

Think about wearing over a black velvet tank dress, or jet black cotton with a bit of lycra for stretch pant weight poplin for casual elegance.

Summer Fashion Inspiration #2

2010-04-04T08:58:00.001-07:00

In my opinion, the fashion designs by Tom and Linda Platt are among the most elegantly simple available. Their entries in the Vogue Patterns Summer Collection are no exception. Take the dress of Vogue 1180 for Summer walks. A simple dress with elegant lines.

The beauty of this dress is how it falls from a proper fitting bustline. Made using using a fine Japanese cotton double gauze, with wispy painterly quality, it will be the perfect dress to wear on hot Summer days.

If a bit shear for your liking, then consider lining with soft, high thread count pima cotton broadcloth in eggshell, made in England and available from FineFabrics.com

Onward!

2010-04-03T19:08:00.000-07:00

Is it a primal throwback? Something ingrained in our dna? No matter how consistent our lives might be... with climate controlled shelter and cars to enclose our travels year round..... Spring comes and,.... well..... It's inspiring...... and to inspire your sewing obsessions, we have a fresh collection of cotton, linen and light weight wools.

Inspiration #1:

Vogue Pattern 1165 by Sandra Betzina. I just love the pleating detail on the front of this blouse. It will prove to be a challenge to keep the pleats straight along their angle. Not something to do when you are tired or in poor light.

I envision making it even more daring, collapsing into the pleats the colors of a brand new cotton print from Liberty of London, now in stock at FineFabrics.com

What is your Spring inspiration?

Be Humbled

2010-02-06T19:25:00.001-08:00

I am going to move from fashion and sewing and parties to a blog of a friend, whom I have had the honor to sit beside at a number of parties, Dr. Paul Auerbach, Director of Emergency Surgery and Medicine at Stanford Medical Center. Paul contacted us from Haiti last week, and well, you can imagine how humbling it is to hear from him. As busy as he was directing triage, coordinating between military, media and patients, he still found the time to journal his experience. His blog entries start on January 20, 2010 at healthlines.com and move forward from there. Take the cue from him and do what you can to support organizations offering aid to the victims of the quake in Haiti.

Warmth in one hour

2009-12-25T21:04:00.000-08:00

This year the family decided no gifts for Christmas, but like everyone else, at the last moment, you know we all succumbed to the temptation of tradition. In a last minute flurry, I chose something for everyone. My last minute choice was to grab from the shelf at Fine Fabrics a square of warm, soft, cuddly fabric, each piece of which with large enough fibers to fringe easily. I cut each into a square by folding diagonally, meeting the selvage with the edge I wished to cut.

I jumped onto the sewing machine and sewed a sealing top stitch about 5/8" inside each cut edge. I created a fringed edge by pulling threads to the sealing stitch. Within about 1 hour, 1 hour, I had made 4 gifts.

I added a chenille rick rack as the sealing stitch on the red and black blanket on the far left.

Each member of our family received a warm blanket like those we used to call car blankets, but they work just as well when sitting on a couch with a good book before a warm fireplace.

From right to left, the boucle and wool fabric used for these blankets are:

These and more can be found at FineFabrics.com

Wedding Clients

2009-12-12T13:36:00.000-08:00

One of our clients, Danyel Dean, was kind enough to allow us to share with you pictures from her recent wedding. The wedding took place at the elegant San Ysidro Ranch, in the foothills over Montecito, California.

The dress was made using a soft blue silk heavy georgette, and lined with sik charmeuse. Both were 19 mm. The bodice overlay was made using a French Lace. All fabrics are available at FineFabrics.com

The dress was inspired by a satin silk organza, bias, tier skirt wedding dress she saw in a couture store window in Paris. Danyel made her interpretation in our sewing studio, and we cheared her on and assisted with fitting and construction advice.

50th Annual NOGI Awards Gala Dress

2009-11-15T17:32:00.000-08:00

On November 5, 2009, I was honored to attend the 50th Annual NOGI Awards Gala in Orlando, Florida.

Dating back to the 1950's, The NOGI is the oldest and most prestigious award in diving. An acronym for "New Orleans Grand Isle Fishing Tournament", which had an underwater division, and where the original statuette was bestowed upon its winners. Originally carved of balsa wood, then cast of polywood, in 2005, the statuette was updated by Wyland, and now is cast of lucite in molds of his making.

In 1993, The Academy of Underwater Arts and Sciences (AUAS) was incorporated by the recipients of the past 33 years, and with ongoing sanction and support from the Underwater Society of America, the AUAS administers the NOGI, which each year is awarded to 4 individuals who have made a global impact on the exploration, enjoyment, safety, and preservation of the underwater world, and have distinguished themselves therefor in Arts, Science, Sports and Education and Service. My husband, Master Fin Designer and Underwater Photograph, Bob Evans (NOGI, Sports and Education, 2005) is the current President of the Academy of Underwater Arts and Sciences, and as such hosts its black tie Gala Awards ceremony. This gives me the opportunity to stretch my sewing ability and make a new gown annually.

What makes this endeavor extra fun is that Martha Watkins Gilkes, President of the Women Divers' Hall of Fame and proprietor of Fantasea Island Divers Scuba in Antigua, sharpens her needles and makes a gown as well. Our annual creation have become a friendly contest of sorts. I have to say, Martha took the night this year! I had anticipated this as much when she called me early in the year to inquire whether the mother of pearl shells completely covering the piece of Chanel couture fabric she found might have been harvested. If so, their impact on the ocean would be adverse, and it would not be appropriate to wear, particularly at this event. It took a bit of digging, but what she and we found is that the shells are harvested from California abalone farms - not far from Fine Fabrics store location!

High Priestess of Humanity

2009-10-18T16:15:00.000-07:00

There is a thread running at Artisanssquare about the prospect of living over 100 years, not as an anomaly, but as a sociological norm. I, for one, believe an aging population bulge will increase the sociological force of elders within our society. I also believe that the population increase that will inevitably coincide with this extended life span will accelerate our Earth becoming more species homogeneous. A sad fact is that we are not reading about increased longevity for species other than humans.

That started me thinking about the responsibility we will weld as "Elders Who Live Longer Than Those Before" in a world that is human, which brings us to the question of what it is to be human?

I grappled with answers that have great ethical value -- that of choice, to learn from our choices, to love and care for those whom we love..... To be honest, these qualities are not unique to humanity. There was but one answer I could find that made us uniquely human and that was clothes. We must clothe ourselves to live on Earth.

The Priests and Priestesses of "The Society of Elders Who Live Longer Than Those Before" in the species homogeneous Earth are those who make clothes. Fellow sewers I anoint you today!

A love for sewing is a spiritual awakening! Sew away!

MidSummer Night's Dream

2009-09-17T18:12:00.001-07:00

When is MidSummer? According to Wikipedia it is June 24, or the date on the Julian calendar associated with the Summer Solstice celebrations. I always took the designation literally and counted the days between the Summer Solstice, June 21, 2009, and the Autumnal Equinox, September 21, 2009. This literal MidSummer is August 5, 2009.

On this date, I would do my best to gather together my son and some of his neighborhood friends for a night of literary adventure. We would make cookies, dress up, pick a character, and sitting around an antique card table, read from William Shakespeare's play for as long as we could keep still.

This year, I decided that in Santa Barbara MidSummer is September. That is when it is the warmest. In fact, its downright hot! So, let's put on our finery, dance in the garden like nymphs in a MidSummer play.

New dress made using Vogue Pattern 8417. A lesson in how to make something as difficult as it can be. Twisting panels, sewn on the bias using 3-layers of silk chiffon and intricately beaded French Lace supported by a silk organza underlining.

Worn over a silk 4-ply under dress.

Over 150 fashion colors of Silk Chiffon, Silk Organza and Silk 4-ply are available at FineFabrics.com

What Makes a Classic?

2009-09-07T09:58:00.001-07:00

Throughout the month of August, Fine Fabrics hosts a collection of lace and silk on loan from the Paris Showroom of Solstiss. 100's of Santa Barbara Fashionistas oh and ah and sigh as they examined each piece. Diverse in style and creative in every aspect, it surprised me when a client pulled out this piece and draped it over a simple navy sheath she brought in with the mission of finding a very special piece of fabric with which to make a coordinating jacket therefor.

It is an absolutely perfect piece! Subtle, lightweight with fluid drape, with colors and design that are without boundary.

A jacket with only shoulder seams and scallops wrapping around the hem, could be made with no more than 1/2 yard more than your bust measurement. Sleeves can be cut as long as you wish with their hem touting the eyelashes of the opposite selvage. The only seams to be sewn are the shoulder and armhole. Finish the neckline and front as you choose, maybe just rolled with a selvage of chiffon sewn within for support. Leave open or close with a cluster of matching beads buttons and loops made using navy silk thread.

A simple jacket made using this lace could be worn to a casual luncheon, as easily as it could be worn to a black tie party. That is what makes for a classic!

It is being hand beaded in France for her now, and expected to arrive in Santa Barbara in October. In the meantime, FineFabrics.com has in stock its sister ground lace in black.

More ideas to come.....

Rows Upon Rows of Ribbons

2009-09-03T13:33:00.000-07:00

First shipment of custom fabric procured for clients attending Fine Fabrics 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Show. This one is a soft cornflower silk, embellished with rows-upon-rows-upon rows of Silk Faille Ribbon sewn onto a soft piece of silk. Dominant color is deep royal. I think this one a must for holiday skirt.

Only limited quantities available.

Wrap Me in Lace and Silk

2009-08-30T07:20:00.000-07:00

We're wrapping up Fine Fabrics 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Show, and I must say this year's show was a huge success. Clients, new and old, came from far and wide, and ooh'd and ahh'd, and let out a sigh as they pondered the creations they might make and wear, and marveled at the intricate hand work, creativity and details exhibited in each piece. Here is a list of the favorites, which we're adding to the collections of FineFabrics.com and are available for immediate delivery beginning mid-September:

A client selection from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from Solstiss Lace. Delicate chantilly ombre lace, light beige at one selvage, traveling through celadon, teal to black on the other selvage. Clients of Fine Fabrics are having made a peasant style blouse, the body of which is black and the hem, teal moving up to the face and nape of the neck in the back. The celadon meets the teal at the raglan seam, moving down to the light beige selvage at the sleeve hem. We love working with clients who have the style sophistication to discover the way to work with these exquisite pieces that can be worn as easily with jeans, as it can with a black velvet skirt.

More ideas to come.....

Solstiss Show Opening

2009-08-07T19:20:00.001-07:00

The Santa Barbara Fiber Arts Guild enjoyed a sneak peak of the Paris Haute Couture collection from Solstiss, after enjoying an educational presentation by Jane Burge from SolstissBucol.

100's of guests arrived, most of whom live in Santa Barbara, but others visited from Ohio, Maryland, and Kande Hall and Len Grabiner traveled from the South Bay of Los Angeles to join Fine Fabrics for the opening of its 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace show.

Those are purses made by and using Solstiss lace in the background.

Many brought, or wore their own lace and beaded creations.

Santa Barbara's and Fine Fabrics' resident couture expert, Tim Carty gave draping presentations.

to the pleasing harp music of Signe Wilson.

Yep. That's a 2-pin drape of one of Fine Fabrics most beautiful pieces of embellished Solstiss lace. It dances in the light and coordinates with greens, violets, blues, copper browns as well as it does black.

My morning Masters swim buddies, Susan Dickinson and Gloria Ochoa graced us with the hostess skills and loaned us their French Florists' vase to hold the 50 very tall white Amaryllis cut from my home garden.

Santa Barbara Fashionista favorites will be posted to FineFabrics.com, some to FineFabrics.com prive' (contact susanne @ finefabrics.com for access) throughout the month of August. Both will be updated daily. Fine Fabrics 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Show is on exhibit through August 31, 2009.

Rapelling from a Helicopter

2009-07-25T19:24:00.000-07:00

It might be hard for someone who doesn't sew, or who never stretched the limits of their sewing ability, or who never cut into $687 per yard French beaded lace to understand that this isn't women sitting stiff backed in a circle with embroidery hoops in hand waiting for the men to come in from the hunt stuff. There is an adrenaline rush. Your heart pounds as that sewing machine needle pumps up and down through the layers of lace and silk, tracing the boundary of beads cut from the seam line. I imagine its not unlike the rush my son might get when he is rapelling from a helicopter on a mission as a member of the Sierra Madre Fire and Rescue Team, or the rush my husband might get when swooping down an undersea canyon wall.

Here is the progress I made today. May not look like much to someone who doesn't sew, but you just wait until next week, when I will wear this dress, completed at the opening reception for Fine Fabrics 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Show.

Bringing Out the Color

2009-07-18T09:53:00.000-07:00

One of the benefits of owning Fine Fabrics is that when it comes time to make something for myself, I have, well you can see at FineFabrics.com what constitutes my fabric stash.....

We have a piece of Solstiss lace that has been teasing me. Many times I have pulled it from the shelf in an attempt to find the perfect color 4-ply silk crepe to match and use both to make a gown. Every time, the colors that worked best with the lace made me look, well, old.

To make myself something new to wear for the August 1 opening of Fine Fabrics 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Event, I once again pulled down this piece of Solstiss Beaded Lace. This time, I pulled every piece of blue and green silk chiffon we had in the store. Bringing out the intricate detail and color of these very best of embellished laces is the enjoyment of working with them. I found that if I build layers of aqua, seafoam and turquoise chiffon, over a base of deep forest green 4-ply silk, the multiple colors - forest, moss, silver and teal - in this beaded lace POP!

The weight of the lace and 4-ply crepe are balanced by the flounce of the silk chiffon layers. I have the basis for a dress that I can wear for the opening of our August Lace Show.

I'll be cutting the fabric today and tracking my progress here during the next 2 weeks. You can see the finished product when you join us for the opening of our 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Show. Contact Solstiss @ FineFabrics.com for an invitation to the opening.

The Paris Haute Couture Collection will visit Fine Fabrics of Santa Barbara through August 31, 2009. We are open Monday through Saturday, 11:00 am - 5:00 pm. Don't miss this exclusive opportunity to shop the World's Finest Lace.

Silk Appliqued Coat

2009-07-14T19:36:00.000-07:00

All of Santa Barbara is getting excited in anticipation of what we will see at our 3rd Annual Lace Show. Solstiss is sending to us selections from the Paris Haute Couture Showroom that will be seen no where else. We, at Fine Fabrics, are honored to be the exclusive host of the collections' visit to the United States.

Today, two of our very special clients brought in a coat made using fabric custom made for, and procured from Fine Fabrics at last year's event. A black silk georgette, appliqued with a deep aubergine silk faille coat, designed and made by Letizia Alta Moda of Santa Barbara for her client Ceil Pulitzer. With their permission, I am sharing it with you here. If you are interested in seeing more unique pieces like this, please join us at Fine Fabrics 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Exhibit.

Celebrity Fashion Fabrics

2009-06-18T20:49:00.000-07:00

At Fine Fabrics we're busy preparing for our 3rd Annual World's Finest Lace Event. Someone asked whether there are any celebrities wearing garments made using Solstiss Lace. So I went to an authority on such matters - In Style - and reviewed their celebrity fashion gallery. What struck me was how many of the most striking garments were elegantly simple in design execution, but excelled in presence because they were made of exquisite fabrics. I chose a few examples of pieces that were made by top designers using Solstiss lace. These pieces exemplify the quality of fabrics made by Solstiss.

I encourage to look around "In Style's" "Look of the Day" gallery. All are fashion inspirations....... and we look forward to seeing you in Santa Barbara in August where you'll see 100's of fabrics and laces at Fine Fabrics, some even more exquisite than used to make the garments shown in the following list.

5th confirmed sighting is Isla Fisher in a green with black chantilly Solstiss lace overlay dress from Stella McCartney Winter 2009 collection at the Bruno LA premiere, June 25, 2009. The link is provided by Stella McCartney's Twitter Team.

4th confirmed sighting is Kerry Washington in a Louis Vuitton bubble dress with Solstiss Lace overlay at The 2009 Costume Institute Gala, May 5, 2009 in New York City. You'll find a picture at Instyle.com.... more to come

Third confirmed sighting is Anne Hathaway at the Cartier 100th Anniversary Celebration in New York City in a Jill Stuart minidress made using Solstiss lace. You'll find a picture of it in the May 1, 2009 installment of "Look of the Day" at Instyle.com......more to come

Second confirmed sighting is Liv Tyler at the Time 100 celebration in New York City in a Stella McCartney dress made using Solstiss lace. You'll find a picture of this "In Style" Editor's Pick dress in the May 6, 2009 installment of "Look of the Day" at Instyle.com

Our first confirmed sighting is of Gwyneth Paltrow in a stunning dress by Balmain from In Style's "Look of the Day" December 23, 2008..... more to come .......more to come

Grant House for City Council

2009-06-07T16:55:00.000-07:00

Santa Barbara City Mayor Marty Blum, Ms. Fine Fabrics (Susanne) and
Santa Barbara City Council Member Grant House

I met Grant House in 1985 when he recommended I buy a Bernina 1040 Sewing Machine. With its perfectly smooth stitch and stable motor hum, it is still my favorite machine. Today, Grant House announced his campaign to run for a second term as our representative to Santa Barbara City Council. My husband and I had the pleasure of joining he and his wife Peggy, Mayor Marty Blum and a cadre of Santa Barbara political officials to kick off his campaign for a second term as a Member of City Council of Santa Barbara. Need I say that I endorse his campaign? A small business man, a compassionate and supportive man, who knows as much about sewing machines as any and can sew too! How can anyone resist him?

Festive Attire Solutions

2009-06-01T16:27:00.000-07:00

I decided to wear what I call my Indian fertility goddess because of the print, waterfall because of the effect of the metallic threads when they dance in the light, dress to the party suggesting "festive" attire on the invitation. That is a tough one. Every fashion blog I read interpreted "festive" as something less than cocktail. I had originally made this dress, worn with sparkling shoes and jewelery to wear to a black tie optional dinner. The resurgence of the maxi dress made this a perfect interpretation of "festive" for this season. There were a few younger than myself in classic halter maxi dresses at the event. The special guest singer at the event, Katie Gray wore one of these.

I chose to make my maxi dress with shear dolman sleeve and not-too-deep V neck at front and back. This is a much better interpretation for someone of my age and with my figure.

Our hostess was the fashion inspirational hit of the event. That is no surprise since she is a statuesque 6'1". Add 4" heels and WOW!

She wore a natural silk sheath with a deep cowl surrounding a plunging back. A terra cotta to rust wrap was casually draped over one shoulder. What was truly unique about the dress was the leather harness that held it in place across and down her back.

The challenge in designing, making or wearing a dress with a V-neck at front and back, like the dress I am wearing, or a bare back like that worn by our hostess is keeping it from slipping off the shoulders, opening at the side, or dropping down too low at center back. You hear stories about how sloppily designed gowns are taped into place on models bodies.

The harness treatment was novel and modern. A no more than 1/2" wide leather belt was buckled across our hostess' back. If I were to look at the dress from the inside, I wouldn't be surprised if I found a fitted under-dress to which the cowl is attached scooping down around the back. If you were full on top, the under-dress might include a bra inset that the belt might secure. A second belt T'd down the center back, no doubt to grab and hold the skirt in place at her lower back. A simple, but elegant, and truly great design that could be worn anywhere at anytime!

A number of years ago, I made a Kasper designed for Vogue Patterns deep cowl down the back dress for a New Year's Eve party. It was secured by a simple tie of the same fabric across the upper back, and cinched in with a ruched waistband around the hips. A large chiffon or organza bow tie might offer an updated version of this method. For a more demure approach, the back might be filled with lace, embroidered organza or chiffon.

A trick I employed with the double-"V" neckline of my Indian fertility goddess dress was to cut the neckline on the selvage. This kept it from stretching. It is silk chiffon and I wanted to leave the upper piece shear. I was able to finish this edge with a simple double-rolled hem. I lengthened the stitch to 3-1/2 on my machine settings, so I could pull it in a smidgen before securing to the dress front at front and back.

If the fabric has more bulk or it is to be lined or faced, then easing it onto a piece of very light weight seam binding to keep it from stretching and to pull it in against is a good idea. Dressmakers' rayon seam binding is a good choice. I also use the selvage from a piece of organza or chiffon. The neckline edge should be eased not enough to show gathers, but just enough to pull in instead of out.

My nature photographer husband did not want to appear like papparazzi, so we did not take a camera any further onto the Montecito estate grounds than where our cars were parked. I could have done without pictures of people and what they wore, but I wish I had a photograph of the table. It was set in a "u" shape on an outdoor patio. Each table setting had a crystal white wine, red wine, water and pleated blue champagne glass. Each table setting had 3-5 candles. The effect was worthy of Camelot. Indeed, it felt as if we were there.

The party was coordinated by Events by Phillipe. Need I say that the French meal was superb. Magician Rich Ferguson roved the party keeping all perky and at ease. Best of all were our host and hostess, with love for family and friends, and a passion for life that outshines even the most elegant of settings.

Angels Do Exist

2009-05-13T20:34:00.000-07:00

In my quest to find the perfect source for everything related to sewing, I stumbled upon Marx's Tailoring Supply. If my memory serves me correctly Marx's Tailoring Supply was located at One Figueroa, or was it One Wilshire, in downtown Los Angeles. It doesn't really matter, but I remember the building name and address inlaid on the door step marking a grander time for the neighborhood. You won't find the showroom there now. Mrs. Marx was using a walker over 25 years ago, when I stumbled upon her showroom.

My father drove me there. Together, we listened to Mrs. Marx' life story as she pulled out felt, under collars, hymo, basting thread, silk thread on wooden spools, dressmaker quality rayon seam binding, and all these wonderful tailoring supplies that I had yet to find anywhere else.

One of my most precious procurements that day was a sterling silver thimble. Mrs. Marx pulled from her case the one that fit perfectly. The thimble was lost in the mid 1980's. I can remember where we lived and the car I was driving at the time. I remember tearing them apart in my quest to find this perfect thimble.

I was thinking about that thimble recently, and when I opened my sewing drawer, there it was. Now, I know I lost this thimble sometime during the mid 1980's. I cannot explain how it has now re-appeared some 20 years later. Its not as polished as I remember, but this magic thimble fits and works like the original. Guess it means I'm gearing up for some serious hand sewing!

Santa Barbara Jesusita Fire Day 5

2009-05-09T10:30:00.000-07:00

The fire fighters received the natural reprieve they required to gain control over the Jesusita Fire. The winds have abated and the moist air of a marine layer moved in today. So have the politicians.

In the beginning of the week, press conferences were conducted by our local Fire Chief and Mayor. Now, an ensemble of beaurocrats all the way up to our Federal Congressperson stand en masse for this International photo opportunity huffing and puffing as if they were on the Jesusita Fire's front line about the funds, technological and personnel resources committed, and their final authorization to bring in the big guns, one of the two DC10's, designed to drop as much as 12,000 gallons of fire retardant at a time. It arrived yesterday. "The conditions have been met to use it effectively." Translated, "We moved as fast as we could, but the system is clogged by budgetary constraints and now, it is the politically correct time since natural conditions have changed so whatever we now do is nearly guaranteed to coincide with success."

There are going to be those now who huff and puff as if they are on the line fighting this fire that not enough was done, soon enough. In my humble opinion, and those who know me will vouch for the fact that I have no problem voicing it as of late, fighting this fire is a classic example of "man vs. nature." Something we have been doing since modern civilization began.

The Chumash Indians of this area moved to the beach when wild fires staked their claim of the hills. Then, the Chumash did not overpopulate, overdevelop or attempt to take control over their environment as we Modern civilites do. It does not matter how much or how soon resources are committed, a wildfire cannot be stopped until nature cooperates. All that can be done is to contain it within its natural environment. That our firefighters did miraculously well.

You might say, at current count 75 homes were lost....... Yes. Peoples' lives are gravely affected by this loss. I feel very deeply for them and do not intend to belittle that loss. The lost structures were within relatively sparsely populated areas, and far more homes in these mountain foothill and canyon communities were saved by pre-planning, fire fighters' heroic efforts and luck, than were lost.

If you understand the population distribution and geography of Santa Barbara you will understand why I am expressing relief about the loss of 75 structures. Santa Barbara is roughly 3-4 miles wide and 12 miles long. It is bordered on the North and South by mountains and Ocean. Population density greatly increases as you move down from the canyon areas, into the foothills and down to the beach. Every panned shot of Santa Barbara illustrates, as does the satellite map prepared by Google for this event.

The Jesusita Fire engulfed the entire face of the mountains above Santa Barbara. As dramatic as the footage of burning hills may be, it is nothing compared to what might have been. At anytime, the wind could have shifted from onshore to offshore to force the flames down any one or more of the many canyons that were all at one time burning. That would have changed this technological man vs. nature fight, where aerial assaults of water and fire retardant drops can be conducted with limited damage. (The fire retardant may be more damaging than we know, but I'll leave that question to be answered when its not our savior.) Into hand to hand, house to house combat through densely populated exploding homes and businesses.

In a wildfire fight confined to its natural environment fire fighters bulldoze and cut fire breaks through chaparral that will reseed. Chaparral actually enjoys the pruning and fertilization the slash and burn provides. In a City, the fire fighters would have been mowing down homes on City streets. Talk about the political fall out of plowing down the wrong contributors' home!

The effect on air quality of burning chaparral and poison oak, although unhealthy, is nothing compared to the environmental fallout and health effects of the ash from a City full of burnt carpet, cars and god knows what went into the construction and is stored within the structures of a more than 200 year old City.

If fire fighters had not been successful in keeping the Jesusita Fire at bay, our one and only artery in and out of the City, Highway 101, would quickly become clogged and as recently happened in Australia when a fire ran through too quickly for evacuees to outrun, deadly. The rest of us would run for the beach. Some would drown as the crowds pushed them from the sand into the water.

That is what our firefighters prevented from happening by keeping the Jesusita Fire within the confines of its natural habitat. It was with confidence that they would do just that that we peacefully vacated our homes, and did our best to stay out of their way.

Yes. More than 30,000 of us are temporarily inconvenienced by the evacuation. In doing so, we had to make decisions about what was most important. There is something grounding and cathartic about doing just that. My husband, our dog and my life, everything else, I could let everything go and start from scratch. I might even find it a relief, a chance to rebuild and redefine myself. I love change.

My husband is much different than me. He is very attached to his pattern and a life of collecting photographs, artifacts, books and artwork. He would be greatly wounded by loss of any of these, let alone all. Among his "stuff" are fin designs and prototypes. He also has 1,000's of 35 mm slides and super 8 movie footage, along with log books and survey data documenting years of expeditions photo-documenting the life as it developed beneath the oil platforms of the Santa Barbara Channel, and the California Channel Islands.

His Channel Islands Collection includes images taken from within the seal rookeries, where he was given access by the National Parks Service before passage of the Marine Mammal Protection Act. These things are his creations and life. They are unique. They are irreplaceable. Their loss would have taken from my husband a part of his life that he cherishes. It would have also represented a great loss to humanity.

Just 2 weeks ago, we had written the Director of New York Museum of Modern Art to ask if they were interested in housing his photographic collection. We decided to start there since my husband's design, the Tan Delta Force Fin is already part of the permanent collections of their Department of Architecture and Design. Instead of waiting for a response, I think I will take this time, while local business in the store is slowed down due to the fire to expand the field of institutions to which we make this offer.

That is my resolution from the Jesusita Fire. I am going to find a safe home for my husband's Offshore Oil Platform and Channel Islands Collection of photographs. Maybe then next time we are asked to evacuate, and the fires will return, I will be able to bother to think about what is most important to me. Maybe that is not a such a good thing.

Its time now to get back to work. The mandatory evacuation order for our neighborhood has been lifted. We are free to return to our home, and I have a bride whose wedding dress I need to get made. Our fabric choices therefor are the subject of our next and much more germane to MsFineFabrics blog post.

I am thankful to my special friends, Ichak and Nurit Adizes, who made this adventure all too pleasant by offering us accommodations that rival the best spas in the World. But, even if I had to lay my head down on the floor of Fine Fabrics this entire week, as we did the first night of our evacuation, or in the back of our Volvo station wagon as many others did, I am thankful I am among the fortunate few that had the opportunity to be a refugee in the paradise called Santa Barbara.

Santa Barbara Jesusita Fire Day 4

2009-05-08T08:54:00.000-07:00

The only thing more important to Santa Barbara politics than real estate is water. Property development is limited by water supply. The two issues work together to maintain a quaint, but elegant ambiance and a limited housing supply. High demand is fueled by almost perfect weather - 72 degrees and dry mean temperature, with Pacific Ocean and Channel Island views from almost every vantage point. Good old Keynsian economics work to keep Santa Barbara's pricing so high that only luck, legacy or privilege allows one to stay within the community.

The "almost" in our otherwise perfect weather includes the hot, dry winds, that periodically whip through the canyons. They raise temperatures and fuel fires, necessary to clear the chapparel that covers the mountains and wilderness areas that surround the City. In Los Angeles these winds are called "Santa Anas", the reason for which I could never figure out, but Santa Barbara is ever fearful of becoming a bedroom community of its Southern megopolis, so we call them "Sundowners".

Sundowners bring a hot, high pressure weather condition during the day. Grab your Summer clothes on the way out the door when that police bull horn announces that its time for your street to vacate. The winds funnel through the canyons and sweep through the City during the late afternoon and early evening. The winds fan fires, and the fires fuel the winds, and each intensify the other. And, that is what is working against the fire fighters in containing the Santa Barbara Jesusita Fire.

Its my theory that when enough ash meets with the moisture in the atmosphere over the Ocean, Mother nature will send in the rain drop troops that will finally quelch the fire. Not sure if a meteorologist would agree.

In the meantime, the fire fighters continue doing a helluva job at keeping the wall of flame from dropping down out of the upper canyon areas where winds are gusting, and population is sparse. I read a report in the Independent, our local weekly newspaper that a finger and spot of flame did make its way down into the San Roque neighborhood where we live, but that fire fighters heroically fought it out and back. Kudos again!

Due to limited water supply, the City has closed Los Banos, the pool at the harbor and shower which we were depending upon using during our stay at the offices of Force Fin and Fine Fabrics. So we've moved to a room in the guest house of a friend and client's Montecito estate. Their son is off at school, and another Refugee from the Eastern flank of the San Jesusita Fire is staying in his room. While we were there Painted Cave was added to the mandatory evacuation list, so our hostess called and invited this new group refugee friends who live there to join. I'm sure we'll see them there tonight.

The community is rallying together to find homes for the other half that has been displaced. Dos Pueblos High School where the American Red Cross had set up a shelter is full, and a secondary location has been set up at the University of California, Santa Barbara. I'm hearing that the hotels are full, but if that is your choice, check your insurance policy. Many provide for payment of your costs associated with displacement due to mandatory evacuation.

Our commercial property that houses Fine Fabrics and Force Fin are on the beach side of the 101 Freeway, and not at this time threatened by evacuation warning. Other than our real dog, Bonita, following us around, and the few of our most precious belongings we were able to fit in the car cluttering Force Fin's warehouse and Fine Fabric's sewing studio, business is as usual.

Santa Barbara Jesusita Fire Day 3

2009-05-07T09:38:00.000-07:00

Winds are not cooperating with fire fighters, and now the entire hillside above the City of Santa Barbara is covered in smoke, ash and fire. A friend with a vantage point view across the City called us at work yesterday to say that things were heating up in San Roque Canyon, which is above our home. He wasn't kidding. The hillside less than 1/4 mile behind my home was ablaze, with winds blowing hard in an easterly direction.

The high winds that are damning those high on San Roque and Mission Canyons are so far our personal savior, but if they should shift to the South, then our home could be in trouble. Our neighbors were already packed up. They had received their reverse 911 calls, advising that our neighborhood had been placed under "mandatory evacuation". That is what it says. Its time to go. So, with winds blowing, and the hillside behind our house literally exploding ..... boom.... boom.... boom... as electrical transformers and contents of homes are consumed..... We loaded the car so full of photographs, paintings, books and sculptures that it dragged as we pulled out of the driveway.

At the last minute, we threw into our swim bags some clothes, and here my nearly completed SWAP was perfect and some toiletries. We made our way to our Santa Barbara Fabric Store to spend the night. We are optimistic that our home will remain upwind; that it is stable in its condition on the flat lands of the San Roque neighborhood and it will survive.

I feel very deeply for my fellow Jesusista Fire refugees who are not and will not be as fortunate, but my husband and I are determined to stay productive and enjoy our temporary Santa Barbara refugee status. I plan to devote the rest of my Jesusita Fire blog entries as a blueprint for how to best enjoy our temporary displacement.

First is determining where to stay.

1. A number of hotels offer discount rates for fire evacuees. If you are lucky enough to be among the first wave of reservations, the Bacara has rooms for as little as $150 - $200 per night for e
2. Family and friends - slumber parties are the mood of the day.
3. American Red Cross has food and cots at Dos Pueblos High School.
4. Alternative properties. Santa Barbara is a real estate town, so many evacuees own more than one property. If not rented, then this is a good choice for those who need to feel personal security when displaced. Office couches serve under this category.
5. Homeless shelter - I hear some of the rooms have an Ocean view.
6. Find a bush or a spot on the beach not yet taken by the homeless.

We opted for 4 - On the floor of the studio loft above Fine Fabrics.

Second is determining where to stow the things in your car.

Third is determining where to bathe.

We swim with the Santa Barbara Swim Club Masters at Los Banos, in the Harbor every morning. Since they remodeled the locker rooms, the showers are actually nicer than those in our home. Swim bags were an indispensable save. Punch card admission to the pool is available for a nominal fee to Santa Barbara residents.

Fourth is determining where to eat.

We celebrated our first night out by sharing a King Crab at the Santa Barbara Shell Company at the end of Stearns Wharf. Then picked up a bottle of cognac at the still open after dinner Crown Liquors on Milpas and toasted to a nip before bed.

For breakfast after a short easy swim this morning, the air is getting a little thick with ash for physical exertion, we treated ourselves to a tourist size meal at Moby Dicks, also on Stearns Wharf.

Santa Barbara Jesusita Fire Day 2

2009-05-06T08:33:00.000-07:00

Went to sleep last night to the chop-chop-chop of helicopters flying. A few pilots are issued night vision goggles to continue fighting fires throughout the night. Woke up at about 3:00 am to clear skies and silence. Thought that the fire was out, but this morning at sunrise you could see flames once again shooting up above the ridge at the top of Jesusita Trail.

So far the fire is not contained, but it has been kept within the wilderness border area of the Los Padres National Forest above Santa Barbara. No reports of structures lost. The City is quiet. Many schools are closed, including the one down the street from our home.

The Jesusita Fire is one for which fire fighters have trained well. Their training appears to have paid off. Kudos to their hard work.

To celebrate the fire fighters, I found 12 pages of images showing of firefighters in uniform.

Santa Barbara Jesusita Fire

2009-05-05T16:27:00.000-07:00

Closed Fine Fabrics Santa Barbara Store early today. The Santa Barbara Jesusita Fire started in the canyon above our San Roque home. We're a few streets south of the evacuation line. We're sitting at the kitchen table. From here we have a view of the mountains, where smoke is billowing, helicopters are flying and dropping their buckets full of water and fire retardant. We're taking the time to get some work done that requires quiet concentration.

Suggested Attire for Parties

2009-05-03T13:19:00.000-07:00

Event planners seem to be getting more and more creative about attire suggestions on invitations. And, I have to admit that a creative suggestion might tip the tables on my decision to attend the event. The invitations before me today suggest: "chic", "festive" and "dressy casual". What each of these mean in terms of what one wears is wide open to interpretation, and needs to be decided in conjunction with the time, place and purpose of the event.

The "dressy casual" event is a fundraiser for an orphanage and sister city to Santa Barbara invitation event for Kotor, Montenegro. It is for the early evening at a beach front estate home in Montecito, California. The question is which to emphasize, the "dressy" or the "casual"? So I'm taking a vote. What would you wear to such an event?

Fine Fabrics dressmaker Cindy whipped up a black and white dress from out-of-print Vogue Pattern 1010 using FineFabrics.com Marimeko inspired black & white cotton with lycra, brightened up with big round red buttons for the "dressy casual" event.

The "festive" event is a cocktail and dinner birthday party, at a mountainside estate home in Montecito, California. For this one, I keep thinking bright and ruffly, something that is flamenco inspired. I think this is because we are in Santa Barbara, and the big city event is our Old Spanish Days Fiesta, performance for which there is a world class flamenco competition. And, that makes flamenco inspired for a "festive" party corney this time of year. Most seem to interpret "festive" as made using bold and brightly colored fabrics. What would you wear to a "festive" cocktail and dinner party?

The "chic" event is already past. It was hosted by Wyland, at his Wyland Waikiki Hotel in Honolulu, Hawaii. The suggested attire actually of "chic" added to our decision to fly over and attend. It was just too intriguing to see what people might consider as "chic" for a hotel poolside party in Honolulu. Pucci was the order of the evening. I had brought mine along, but opted to wear a chiffon tunic dripping with ribbon of varying colors and widths, over an Indian hand woven cross-dye dupioni long pencil skirt in mustard, with iridescent silk peeking out of its side front slit.

3-Dimensional Visualization

2009-05-01T18:00:00.000-07:00

School teaches us to think linearly and to identify objects. School teaches us to visualize 2-dimensionally. My artist designer husband has taught me to see the world in what he would call its 4-dimensional glory. Design teaches us to see things in their (1) entirety, within their (2) environment, (3) function and (4) beauty from all perspectives.

Whether one drapes, draws and particularly when one works from a commercial pattern, there is a process of visualizing any fashion creation. When fledgling fashion designers embark on their first fashion sewing project, they visualize their creation floating around a body. Sewing patterns are linear interpretations of a 3-dimensional object. It is nearly impossible to visualize how the mound of folded tissue is going to become their drawn out, dreamed about creation. All have a blank stare when they unfold their first commercial fashion sewing pattern.

We start by separating the pattern pieces from one another, and identifying how they will go together on the body by pinning them into place on a dress form or mannequin.

For those who do not have access to a dress form, try tracing a body onto a large piece of card stock paper.

For this exercise, we used the cover of a binder full of artists' drawing stock. Cut the neck long, and fold it over a hanger. Then pin the pattern pieces into place.

Or, you can purchase from FineFabrics.com a visualization mannequin to which you can apply your flat pattern pieces.

These will not work for fitting, but they are great design tools for beginning or intermediate sewers.

There are no bad mistakes, or why a muslin is ALWAYS important

2009-03-28T12:25:00.000-07:00

"Muslin" is an inexpensive woven cotton fabric. Its fashion sewing purpose is to make a rough draft of a garment. This rough draft is also called a "muslin", whether made with muslin fabric or any other inexpensive fabric which you might choose to use. The garment muslin is used to confirm and adjust the pattern and design to fit, prior to cutting into the fashion fabric. I never thought that it should be done to confirm you are making the correct garment!

I had wanted to make myself a billowy, crunched crosswise at the hem skirt ever since I had to abort the plan for my cotton bias patchwork fabric. So, as part of my SWAP - Timmel's Sewing with a Plan - challenge at Artisanssquare, I planned to make a skirt from natural silk mugga inspired by this one that was made for a couture collector client of Fine Fabrics.

This client and I are very close in measurement. I had tried on skirts made for her in the past, so I knew whatever skirt I made using her patterns would fit me well. With more than 40 years of sewing experience behind me, I'm pretty good at visualizing the 3-dimensional garment from a flat pattern, but this pattern just did not look right. I couldn't figure out how the pleats would go together to give me cross side pleat look I was wanting. So, I waited until our dressmaker, Cindy was about to ask her how it went together. She quickly pulled in the pleats and with a flick of her wrist said, "Just go for it. We know it fits you and you'll see how it works when its on you." We would not have cut the muslin corner for a paying client, but I was anxious to get something made, so I did just that.

And here is my skirt. Fits perfectly. With the loop drape of the pleats it is a better use for the silk mugga than the planned pattern, which really shows itself with a more structured fabric. I love it. I'll live in it this Spring and Summer. But, it is a different skirt. As Cindy says, there really are no bad mistakes, but it demostrates that there is a purpose for making a muslin, even when you think you can get away without.

The Incredible Growing Shirt

2009-03-08T19:27:00.000-07:00

Or, why it is so important to stay neck edges, armholes and other piece edges that might stretch.

"Stay stitching" is a single line of stitching, through one layer of fabric, to stabilize the fabric, preventing it from becoming stretched or distorted. When I take the time to stay stitch, I will do so 1/8" within the seam line - on a 5/8" seam at the 1/2" line. In some cases, I'll sew in a strip of seam binding or my personal favorite, an organza or chiffon selvage strip. It is important to stay neck and armhole edges, bias seam lines where a zipper is to be inserted, and in the case of my shirt also along the back waistline edge.

I laughed when our dressmaker, Cindy gave a lecture about the importance of "stay stitching" for her Sewing Educator Certification course, but my "Incredible Growing Shirt" is a prime example of why this simple step, that one might think is such a bore it might be eliminated, is so important.

Its surprising how much this shirt distorted. Its a lightweight silk jersey, which is not the most stable of fabrics, but this is pretty extreme growth from stretching. This shirt is also an example of when you might use a fabric for your rough draft that handles similarly to the fabric to be used in the finished garment. The best dressmaker I know collects different fabrics that are deeply discounted on dump tables for her muslin garment drafts, and has a collection of all sorts of weaves and weights.

I made this muslin, with just that, a woven cotton muslin. It has no stretch. I left the side seam open to get the muslin on and off and pinned it shut for fitting. The shirt needed to be pinched in at the waistline by about 1-1/2". Other than that it fit well.

Now what must I do to salvage this shirt besides wearing it draped over my shoulders and dripping off my body. First, re-establish its new shoulder line, which in this case pulls in about 2" of fabric from the front and back neck.

Second, I can open the side seam and pull in the back at its waistline, and taper into the hemline, but I think I'll create a poet's shirt pleat at center back. I actually like that more than its simple straight look. Sometimes, its best to loosen up and creatively progress the design along the way.

Inaugural Party Hostess Gown

2009-03-08T16:25:00.001-07:00

The completed Washington Inaugural Party Hostess Dress. The contrast and brightness of the image has been increased, virtually overexposing it you could see more of the detail. It is very monochromatic, which is part of the understated effect we wanted.

Our client's comment, "I should have had Fine Fabrics posted to my forehead for all the people who asked about my dress...... I was watching women pulling and adjusting their bustier and I was running around, free to move and comfortable."

We lined this gown with double knit jersey - yoga pant material - over which was draped 100% cotton interlock - t shirt fabric - and a beautiful, graphic and modern 35% silk and 65% rayon velvet burnout. Our client is California sporty in life and style and this inaugural party gown fits her. For more on its construction see "Washington DC Here We Come!"

Pretty in Pink and Other Cliches

2009-02-16T20:08:00.000-08:00

Many years ago, I learned from an artist friend, Mei Shu, to give myself the gift of sewing for my birthday. Mei Shu created a painting for herself every birthday. Since then, my friends and family have learned not to throw a party on my behalf, and that I would stand them up for any luncheon they would try to arrange. My husband learned not to expect a special dinner. One year he was greatly disappointed to learn that I had run to the store to purchase Cotton Duck, and not one to roast.

This year, I allowed myself the time to be inspired by the beauty of my birthday garden. There are a few trees that were collected as birthday gifts. One of these is my pink magnolia. In February, when most of the Northern Hemisphere is hiding from the snow, my pink magnolia opens its saucer blooms announcing that Spring is here.

This year as I walked through the garden I found that the Magnolia was not alone. Nearly everything in bloom was a shade of pink.

The cosmos are obviously confused because they are not supposed to be here until Summer.

The garden inspired me to run astray and consider making myself a St. John knit inspired coat of pink ribbon tweed. Maybe pull the the ribbons and braid them for closures, but without much pink in my wardrobe, I could not stop there. I would have to then make myself a pair of pink cotton with lycra pants, and a new white broadcloth blouse....... and before I could stop myself, I'd be spending a birthday week of sewing new creative projects, something I cannot afford myself the luxury of this year.

So, this year I stayed focused and played my sewing practical. I completed items 2 and 3 for the 11 piece SWAP (Sewing With A Plan) Projects I am working my way through, along with many other women who frequent Artisanssquare. SWAP is part of a commitment to sew what works for my daily life for awhile. To create a wardrobe that allows for me at anytime to open my closet and be able to pick what is perfect to wear that day.

The pieces I completed are this Donna Karan suit made using Vogue sewing pattern 2064 out of a very stretchy and very comfortable rayon with lycra double knit. I highly recommend this pattern and design. The pants are easy to make as easy can be. There are no side seams, just side darts that keep a clean line on the hips and waist.

Construction involves pinning, cutting, sewing inner leg and crotch seams, adjusting fit, casing and threading elastic, hemming and your done! The top is a little more involved, but technique wise does not involve anything more. Just follow the instructions and you have a suit that can be worn from gym, to warehouse, to office, to dinner. It bridges the gap between casual and well-dressed. It works for hanging around the house and going out. Just what the closet ordered!

Washington D.C. - Here we come!

2009-01-18T21:56:00.000-08:00

The first of the Inaugural balls are tonight and we're waiting with anticipation to see if any of Fine Fabrics clients in attendance at the Inaugural festivities appear in press photos. We're pretty sure two will, but they are not about whom we are writing today. Instead, we're writing about two other clients, who understand the fashion for the Inauguration --- understated democratic blue, well blue and purple, but understated nonetheless.

Two of Fine Fabrics clients who are in attendance at the Washington D.C. festivities chose to wear gowns of jersey. The client who sews for herself made a simple dress of purple rayon jersey. Another client's gown was made in a last minute flurry by none other than yours truly, Ms. Fine Fabrics.

Inspiration must have overtaken my reason and sanity, since I designed, fitted - which was part of the inspiration, since the client is a body type for which I had not personally worked with in the past, and constructed a gown appropriate for the occasion and personality of the client in 4 days. Which only serves to remind me why my number 1 rule for dressmaking is "no unreasonable deadlines". Well, it is really rule number 2, but after this last week's flurry it is working its way up to the number 1 position.

The client is a true California blond, athletic and sporty, with a petite-apple figure type. She is attending the California Inaugural Ball and hostess of a party on Inaugural (Tuesday) night, our goal was for her to feel and be comfortable, beautiful and glamorous.

To do this, we had to choose a design that did not look like a standard from the mother of the bride department of a bridal store, or hide in a mu-mu or big shirt worn like Mama Cass. We needed a gown that was:

(1) Fitted at the right points - in this case across the shoulders and around to the mid-back;
(2) Draped at the right points - in this case off center from narrowest waist point to the ground, and sweeping around the hemline at the back; and
(3) Handled in a manner that carries the eye from the face and down to the ground.

Since were on such a tight schedule, I didn't even think of trying to draft a pattern, especially for someone for whom I had never sewn in the past. Instead, I started with Bellville Sassoon's Vogue Pattern 1014. This gown's asymmetry is perfect for adding height and its drape is great for dancing. We lengthened the dress to the floor and added long fitted sleeves. We also cut a V-neckline and moved the shoulder line up closer to the neck. The pattern has the back and front meeting at the shoulder point.

For the right arm, right front and drape that wraps around the lower back hem, we used a navy silk and rayon velvet burn out. The choice of this fabric and substituting it for the lower right side added length and glamor, and drape for dancing.

For the left arm, shoulder and mid-back, we used nothing more than a very fine navy cotton interlock - Made in Italy - t-shirt material. The use of this fabric allowed us to sculpt and accentuate the sexy curve of the client's mid-back.

We lined the dress with yoga pant weight navy blue knit, which smoothed the client's curves, and eliminated her need to wear constricting undergarments.

In my opinion, the picture on the pattern envelope does not do this design justice. It appears dowdy. In actuality, this dress is a very avant-gard and elegant design. Its construction is surprising. The fact that I did not study it before suggesting we use it as our starting point proved a challenge at the outset. It is a very difficult pattern to alter to true measurements.

The right front begins at the left shoulder and is also the upper back. It wraps over the right shoulder, across the front, down the left side from below the waist, then around the hem in the back. The dress twists from bias at the neckline to cross grain around the back hem. The zipper runs from left shoulder to right hip, also along the bias. The left front attaches to the right lower front and the center back is its own piece that again meets the right front between each of its 2-sides. The waistline markings are no more than a curved line at one-side, on one piece. Each pattern piece is cut individually. Crossing silk pins is my preferred method of marking when working with single pieces. (More about marking techniques later.)

Vogue patterns run tight through the waist, at least for women who have had children. Due to the twists and turns of the design, we could not add the 3" here necessary until after the muslin draft was constructed. Once the muslin gown was on the client we took a pair of scissors and cut it just left of the center front on the lower right piece and inserted a 3" piece of muslin from waistline to floor there. That was an easy fix and added some volume for dancing at the now floor length hemline.

We were able to match the left front cross-over waistline to which the lower right attaches and right front by doing the same at their right side seam. We also had to shorten the waist length on both the left front and back, and pinch in the back neck, which may have been due to stretching, since this line came in short in the end, and had to be put back in at the shoulder. Note to tape necklines on muslin for fitting in the future.

Adding length to a pattern is the very easiest alteration. In this case it was possible to do so simply by extending the seam line along each pattern edge. We adjusted by pinning against the floor as our final fitting step.

A good tailored fit through the shoulders is important for everyone, but especially important for petite-apples. We altered the armscye by increasing its depth a bit in the front and decreasing it a bit in the back. We then had the client lift her arms. The garment responded by pulling up from the waist up into the armpit. We cut the sleeve piece right along its center line to increase its volume as pictured. This added muslin scrap is sewn into place, the grainline remarked and the muslin sleeve is then used as our pattern.
We decided to close the shoulder line after fitting, so I extended the shoulder line when cutting the fabric, then marked its length during our second fitting. To fake out a sleeve was in place and prevent the armscye from stretching while fitting, I pinned a piece of seam binding cut to finished size around the armscye. Twill tape, also available from FineFabrics.com, will do the job just as well. I should have done the same around the neckline. That I didn't caused problems with zipper placement at the eleventh hour, which is precisely why "no unreasonable deadlines" is a rule. It is a self-fulfilled prophecy. The corner you cut in a flurry will always cause a catastrophe in the end.

Since our client had to fly off to Washington D.C. before we were finished, we'll have to wait for her return for pictures, but then, it wouldn't be fair to announce what she is wearing before she appears at her first Ball tonight and the party she is hosting on Tuesday night.

For finished gown click here

Palazzo Pants - The Other Black Dress

2008-12-31T18:29:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!

Off to multiple parties. Invited at the last minute. No time to think about something new to wear. The predictable solution is that little black dress, but that is its problem. The little black dress is so damn predictable. If you are not wanting to hide in a sea of black dresses, my favorite last minute solution is palazzo pants. You'll never feel too dressy or too casual, and Palazzo pants give unexpected flair. They are perfect for hopping between parties of different character.

I have 2 pairs of palazzo pants, and for and with a client, we are making a simple pair, that consists of 3 independent layers of different colors of chiffon. Our client's design was inspired by a selection from the collections of John Galliano. They are incredibly easy to make and will fit just about anyone. Will post their progress here later.

The pair of palazzo pants I am wearing New Years' Eve party hopping were made using Vogue 1290. Their outer layer was made using a silk chiffon, flocked with a golden plush velvet tree of life outer layer. They are not lined. Instead, I wear them over a pair of silk charmeuse fitted pants.

A series of chiffon, heavy georgette or plush velvet burnout palazzo pants, worn over fitted silk charmeuse or satin, with stretch fitted pants worn on their own or under the shear palazzo pants are a great trick for staying unique and fashionable for multiple parties. They are the perfect solution for what to wear when traveling to attend the inaugural bashes in Washington, Academy Awards parties, on a cruise, or on New Year's Eve. The look of the pants can change depending upon the layers worn.

The pair of plush patterned chiffon palazzo pants pictured here are fitted at the waist, so a closure is necessary. With fabrics that have a fine drape, like chiffon, I like to substitute small, clear nylon snaps for the zipper. A zipper can add bulk to the seam and interfere with its drape over the hip. I also used size 3 hooks and eyes to keep the waistband closure delicate and low profile.

Our New Year's Eve started at the estate home of Paula and Joe Campinelli,

moved onto a party hosted by Hillary Hauser, Founder and Executive Director of Heal the Ocean, where I was having so much fun I did not even notice that singer Jack Johnson, a big supporter of many environmental causes, including Heal the Ocean was sitting on the couch in front of this dance line up. Oh well, my husband got the opportunity to meet him and thank him for his music and work.

The transition to casual might be better made if I took off the coat and showed the pants with simple sleeveless sweater, but I was caught in the line up on my way out the door to end 2008 quietly at home, so both my designated driver husband and I could toast 2009 in together.

When I was 17.......

2008-12-13T19:50:00.000-08:00

At different stages of life, our body takes on different characteristics. No matter how healthy, muscular or thin one might be, at 50 our boobs are a bit lower. I am sure I was not wearing a bra in that circa 1974 photograph. I can't remember if I even owned one then...... Our waists are wider, and well,... we don't need to carry on this line of thought any further...... On the other side of the coin, I don't think that there is a one of us who does not visualize ourselves as we were at 17. Just like the music we listened to, the clothes we wore and how we looked at that very transitional age sticks with us throughout our lives. That can be frustrating since our mind sees our body and how the clothes we wear as they were or might have looked in that fertile, prenuptial stage of life. When we put on the garment and look in the mirror, it cannot look the same as our visualization. I say to hell with respectful attire, sometimes, it is a good idea to let your visualization survive. See yourself as you were at 17. If you feel that way, it is how you will look, and avoid looking at yourself in the windows as you skip down the street. If you don't see yourself other than in your mind's eye, you are 17 still.....

SWAP at Artisans' Square II - Sand and Sea

2008-12-12T15:52:00.000-08:00

I had an interesting conversation with my son this morning. He leaves on a flight to Tasmania tonight. Tasmania is home of some of the World's finest wool merchants. Alex is not on a buying trip. He is there to embark on a month long cruise aboard the Research Vessel Thomas G. Thompson in the rough waters South of Tasmania. He does know how to sew and probably made the mesh collection bags into which they will place the specimens to be collected from the deep. Alex had a lot to do before he left, not the least of which was get in his post-doctoral applications. In his own words, he has made "progress on multiple fronts", but was not yet packed, nor did he have one of the applications completed. Who says men cannot multi-task.

I had to scrap my first wardrobe plan, since FineFabrics.com sold out of the key pieces - the African Linen and Batik. Without these, the plan did not have the zip to keep me motivated sewing through 11 pieces.

Plan 2 is called sand and sea: Like my first wardrobe plan, the Missoni fabric found a new home before I made my ensemble. I was able to save 1/2 yard that is at this time destined to be a collar for a jacket to be made from the open weave silk muggah or a sweater coat out of the oatmeal jersey. That may be more versatile than the totally Missoni fabric suit, I had originally envisioned making.

During the past few weeks, I've completed the Organic bamboo with lycra dress. It reminds me of a dress, I lived in during my Senior year at High School and Freshman Year at college. Very soft on the skin when suffering from too much sun! Will post pictures of a young, thin Ms. Fine Fabrics later.

I've cut out and constructed the vest from the last yard remaining at FineFabrics.com of an absolutely unbelievable piece of Solstiss Lace, embellished with leather, metal, mini-springs, and embroidered with copper metallic thread. The vest is loose fitting and minimally constructed. I used a sleeveless, button down the front shirt pattern by Adri for Vogue Patterns, No. 2279 for the muslin.

I eliminated the side seam, which is a good trick to follow when seams will interfere with pattern more than they are required for fit. There is a more detailed instruction on this technique in "Smelling Silk and Roses".

I used the post-fitting muslin as my pattern. It is a good idea to lay the fabric over the pattern or muslin so that you can see how the embellishment will appear on the finished garment. Since there was only a 1 yard square of this lace in stock, I had to add a side front seam and be a little creative in placement of the pattern. It is always a good idea to sleep over a creative layout before cutting, since I was able the next day to piece it a bit differently, that gave me more length and enough of the scallop edge to use in finishing the center front edges. When working with lace it is sometimes desirable to hide seams by cutting around key design elements and embellishments, then over - and under - lapping the seam edge. To be able to optimally choose how the design elements lay over the seam, I marked the pattern seam with glass head pins, and left key design elements extending beyond the seam line so I could choose how to over- or under- lap them where the pieces were joined at the shoulder, which seam is pictured below,or along the side front seam pictured below. ecause of the metal pieces, I hand sewed the seams and the scallop edge to the center front edge using a running prick stitch. I hate to say that my stitches look nothing like those done by the embellishment sewers for Solstiss. On this piece of lace, they use a copper metallic thread, and each stitch adds to the design. It prompted me to take a closer look at the application of embellishment by other Solstiss pieces we have at FineFabrics.com, and the same is true with these. Make a note to think out how seam stitches can be worked into the design on next piece.

Left to do is the finishing of the armhole and neckline edges, and deciding upon whether I want to add some sort of optional center front closures. This leaves me hand work to do when sewing with students who are using the machines and tables.

I'm ready to cut out the Montana for Vogue Patterns pants to be sewn this weekend. And, with respect to the sand and sea halter and Montana Pants.....

People often ask me whether one should start from a pattern or the fabric. It really is sort of a chicken or the egg sort of question. I am of the fabric school of thought. Having a store full of fabric from which to choose on any single day is not the only reason. You can always find or modify a pattern to do what you would like to do. It is not always as easy to find a fabric that is exactly what you envision. And, frankly, I think it limits your creative options to be too specific when shopping for any fabric.

That being said, planning an 11-piece coordinating wardrobe offers its own challenges. Not the least of which was making my chosen designs fit within the boundaries of the fabric I had available to use. After a week of pinning and unpinning I made a pair of pants and top for which the combined patterns required 3-3/4 yards fit into 2.

In the meantime, I've come up with a couple more wardrobe plans in Navy, red, ivory and gold, and another for a client in deep brown, black, white, light taupe and gold. We'll post on these later also.

Like my son, I'm happiest when there are more projects on the deck than can possibly be finished, then orchestrating them to a crescendo conclusion.

Why do prices at FineFabrics.com appear to be more than some other on-line fabric sources?

2008-12-01T20:42:00.000-08:00

There are certain fabrics for which I am always on the lookout. They include cotton and silk voile, cotton velveteens and silk prints, with sophisticated adult patterns, designer fabric that is both contemporary and classic. Quite frequently, our fabrics are pre-season goods. FineFabrics.com is now accepting delivery of items from some of the worlds' finest mills' 2010 collections. Although some of our exclusive collection of Solstiss Lace is in-stock, many more pieces are custom made-to-order for our clients. (If you are sincerely interested in these, please contact me for permission to access FineFabrics.com/Prive)

This year, I stumbled upon some cotton velveteens from one of my favorite vendors, whose Company has for the past 70 years represented a number of mills from Italy. The value of the Euro to the US Dollar on the day ordered required that I price these velveteens at $34.95. Not bad for their rich print and excellent fiber quality.

As I was anxiously waiting for their arrival from Italy, a vendor who sells remainder inventory to a discount on-line fabric source stopped by our Santa Barbara fabric store. Remainder inventory are fabrics that are left-over, or have not sold through other outlets. Sometimes you can find great classics at bargain prices from vendors that specialize in these goods, but you have to know what you are buying.

Our remainder inventory vendor pulled out of his suitcase swatches of some cotton velveteens that were pleasant in color, sophisticated in design, made in Italy....... They were even designer goods, "Made for Calvin Klein." I could feel my eyes get larger as I thought about the velveteens on the ship from Italy that I was going to have to sell for $34.95 per yard, and here were some "not bad" velveteens being offered to us at a whopping $2.00 per yard! Had I been had?

I composed myself and focused my eyes to discern the truth about these velveteens and their too good to be true price. These discount velveteens were not quite as exciting as those I was importing for FineFabrics.com. They were a little dated in design and color.... and that was the key question I had to ask. "How old are these fabrics?" My vendor responds, "Oh, these are from the 1970's. We're cleaning out our warehouse and have some things here at a good price from all the way back to the '50's."

Vintage hounds may find this interesting, but if you have ever visited a fabric warehouse in New York, you know that the fabrics are not preservecd like your mother's vintage wedding dress. And, if you have ever tried to use cotton thread from your grandmother's sewing box, you know that cotton deteriorates. And the poor, unwary sewer that falls victim to purchasing these velveteens from one of the discount on-line sources, at the bargain price I see of between $5.00 and $11.00, will have no bargain when the cotton deteriorates, shreds and splits after putting their time and creativity into their garment.

I've sat next to chain store and on-line discount fabric buyers ordering before. I've heard them say, "We'll take everything you have in quantity that is under $1.97", while I am there handling and inspecting each piece we are considering to buy.

We're as excited about finding a real bargain as anyone, but our vendors and clients know that we accept only 1st quality goods that are worth your time and creativity.

And, that is what you pay for at FineFabrics.com. We ask the questions for you.

Hong Kong or Bound Seams

2008-11-20T10:11:00.000-08:00

Good quality metallic fabrics have a quality like peau de soie that is as light as a feather. Their wrinkles are part of their elegance. They both crunch and dance in the light. They are perfectly suited for making a gown.

They do not slip and slide. They are not difficult to sew. You do want to carefully finish all edges. The metallic fibers can shred, poke and itch if left loose.

In her "Fabric Sewing Guide", Claire Shaeffer recommends binding the edges of all pieces with a tricot seam binding. I can understand the logic, the stretch in the tricot makes it easy to keep the binding smooth. Traditionally, Hong Kong seams are made using a 1" bias strip of matching lining fabric. (More on making a continuous bias strip later.)

At Fine Fabrics we carry dressmaker quality rayon seam binding by Mokuba. It doesn't stretch, but it is soft so it does not change the quality of the fabric. It worked just fine for the task of binding the seams for my gown and will work just as well for binding the seam, facing and hem edges of any woven fabric.

I followed Claire Shaeffer's advice and bound all the seams on this gown before constructing. The gown is is also lined with silk charmeuse. Bound seams are my favorite finish. They are clean, elegant, tailored. They are one of those details that give a couture touch and make you smile when putting on the garment.

Bound seams take a little extra time. With seams that are pressed open you are stitching each seam 5 times, but the time is meditative: Sew the seam..... seam the binding to the seam edge..... press the binding out..... press the seam rolled over..... sew the binding in place.... repeat on the other side.....

With a bit more specificity a bound seam is made as follows:

Meet edge of seam binding to unfinished edge of seam, right sides together. Stitch as close to the edge as you can. I use an edge stitch foot, number 5 for my Bernina Sewing Machine, with needle set to the far left and tab running along fabric and binding edge to hold a perfectly straight line, while creating a very small seam. Press seam binding out, then roll around and under seam edge. Stitch again just inside the seam ditch. If the fabric is particularly at risk of shredding, I might use a zig zag stitch, which I did with the metallic fabric in this gown and I might also do with matka or tweed.

SWAP at Artisans' Square

2008-11-11T13:39:00.000-08:00

At Artisans' Square I learned of "SWAP". It does not mean we are now bartering. The acronym stands for "Sewing with a Plan". It is a sewing concept developed by Timmel's Fabrics in Canada. It is great for motivating the sewing of projects that work into your wardrobe. For an impulsive, creative project fashion sewer like myself that is a very novel and useful way to learn to approach fashion sewing. The result of impulsive creativity, although fun, can be a closet loaded with interesting fashionable pieces, yet each morning it is difficult to decide what to wear. I decided to give SWAP a try.

Artisans' Square is currently running an international SWAP, with the blessing of Timmel's Fabrics, that challenges all between now and April 2009, to make a coordinating wardrobe. 6 tops, 4 bottoms, 1 jacket. All tops must work with all bottoms.

There are all sorts of discussions at Artisans' Square as to how best to approach your SWAP. I decided to start with choosing a group of fabrics that are both inspiring, will work for my wardrobe plan, lifestyle and personality.
Next step was to choose the specific patterns or designs I wished to make from each of the fabrics.

I created the storyboard at the top of this blog entry in Photoshop by:

1) Creating a storyboard file.
2) Scanning into Adobe Photoshop a very high resolution image of the line drawings on the back of each pattern I chose. Converting these to line drawing transparencies by selecting the background color range, then deleting. Then copying and pasting the line drawing to a layer in my storyboard file.
3) Copying and pasting the image from FineFabrics.com of each fabric I planned to use as a layer just beneath the line drawing in the storyboard file.
4) Using the magnetic wand tool to select the outline of the line drawing, selecting its inverse, clicking on the fabric layer, then deleting.
5) Linking the 2-layers together.

I do have a few extra pieces in my storyboard, but there is every reason to leave yourself open to decision making along the way.

It is now time to get sewing......

49th Annual NOGI Awards Gala Gown

2008-11-06T17:09:00.001-08:00

For 3-years Martha and I have gotten together for our portrait in the gowns we have made for The Academy of Underwater Arts and Sciences Annual NOGI Awards Gala. Every year it seems that we both are finishing the gowns in our hotel rooms as we rush to get ready for the event.

Inspired by Martha's Valentino red gown she wore to the event last year, I went all out this year and made a GOWN!

I toyed with the idea of "embracing my belly", like a Ruben's portrait or pregnant child with crop top and skirt rolled below, but opted for conformity. It took 4 muslin drafts to get the pleats to lay and the fabric to bulge in just the right manner to hide, instead of accent my round middle.

The Armani gold silk with metal turned out to be a perfect choice for the task. Not only did it conform to the shape for which I was aiming; it also traveled incredibly well. I was able to roll it up to fit in my carry on, then tug the fabric back into place.

Every client and friend who entered Fine Fabrics was surveyed as to best color choice for accent lining and lace: Sophisticated gold lining gray Solstiss lace vs. lively watermelon lining Solstiss gold lace. The unanimous choice was the latter.

I balanced the activity of the right side, with lace overlays dripping down the left side and sublime back. I'll post details of this later.

When times are tough, its time to sew

2008-10-10T14:13:00.000-07:00

Many of the mills that supply FineFabrics.com have survived World War II, the last Great Depression of the 1930's, World War I, the Long Depression that started in 1870, and even the Napoleonic War. There is something very humbling and ingratiating to look at love, life and business as a long term global adventure. And, if there is anything I have learned from my short time here, and the few lost loves, disappointments, and hardships I have had to endure, the very best therapy is activity. Let's get in shape - swim twice a day and twice as long - and let's get sewing.

This weekend's project: Gown based upon Vogue Pattern 2842. The rough draft made out of muslin revealed that pleats on both sides of front, that fold in along pelvis simply does not make it for those of us who are not flat bellied.

"Oh did you see that Susanne is pregnant!" (translated: "They must be awfully active and he must be mighty virile...." ) may not be a bad rumor to spread at the age of my husband and I.

Nonetheless, I settled for fashion conformity and dropped the pleats and pulled the side seam up 6" accordingly on the left side, creating an asymmetrical line, while keeping the volume at the hemline, dropped the bottom pleat on the right side so that the fabric drapes over and hides the, "I'm not really pregnant, it just looks that way," belly. To overcome the virginal wedding dress look, I'll show a little skin by not lining the godet.

For the gown, I'm using a crisp silk and golden mettallic taffetta with a scale pattern texture, selvage stamped Giorgio Armani, available from FineFabrics.com.

I have yet to decide on the lace to be used for the sleeves, bodice and godet. I'll either stay with Armani inspired colors with a gray Solstiss lace lined with golden silk charmeuse, or liven the look up with a pale rose colored and gold chantilly lace, also made by Solstiss, lined with a lively melon charmeuse. If I use the latter, I'll tier the lace that hangs in the godet, and drip some of the lace down the front of the gown.

Oh yes.... I do have a before the sky fell scheduled black tie event to attend in a couple of weeks, so the gown is needed.... Love, life, business and fashion will continue.

Kubler-Ross' missing step - Euphoria

2008-09-13T21:57:00.000-07:00

They say a move is the emotional equivalent of death. I do have to say that during the past couple of months my moods have run the course of Kubler-Ross.

Denial: I piled up so much to do that I could not possibly make the move date. I agreed to make a wedding gown, that turned into a most adorable rehearsal dress, inspired by Yves St. Laurent's 1957 black dress and made using an Armani linen fabric in ice blue, when
we decided to give the bride's mother's 1953 Saks couture wedding gown a boob job, round down the points, and an overlay of Solstiss lace. The wedding was the same day as Fine Fabrics new store opening and exhibit of the 2009 Haute Couture Collection from Solstiss Lace.

I also joined an international internet "Great Coat Sew-A-Long". More later on construction of my coat, including interviews with 2 of Santa Barbara's finest couturiers on pad stitching and bound button holes. I started my summer pleated skirt to be finished next, and agreed to see our Armani fabric sales representative on the day before movers were scheduled. Some great new Armani Fabrics have since arrived, and are now available at FineFabrics.com. I ended up packing up the old store in 6-hours. Years of trade shows made that part a breeze. Movers showed up the next morning. It took 6 men to move our black granite, steel-based cutting table. We were in, out and in Fine Fabrics new location in 9 hours flat.

I won't go into my anger or depression stage. My mother, who like so many others had taught me to sew, died in the middle of all this. She is 90 years old and had a major stroke a number of years ago. Some say it is a blessing. I don't agree. I say, "it just is." She survived and progressed in life for more than 7 years after she could no longer take care of herself. Sitting with her in the end, allowed us to share our release from anger and depression, but I won't go into that here because when the doors opened on August 9 ........

Hundreds of Santa Barbara's fashionistas showed up with bouquets and orchids, and 10 bottles of champagne later, I felt a bit euphoric. Kubler-Ross missed the last step: Euphoria.

Thank you all for joining us for our opening celebration and allowing us to share with you the art of Solstiss Lace. We look forward to many more years of composing and sewing fashion together.

And, here is to you mom, who unconditionally loved your family and life, and fought to live so well.

Ms. Fine Fabrics in the red hat, Fine Fabrics' dressmaker, Cindy Asendorf, who pulled off completing the wedding gown makeover in the nick of time, in the white hat, and my mother, Betty Chess, in the blue hat, at Santa Barbara's most sought after for invitation 4th of July party.

Fine Fabrics Hosts Solstiss Collection

2008-07-15T16:19:00.000-07:00

To christen their new location Fine Fabrics will Host
The Exclusive Collection From Solstiss
Makers of The World's Finest Lace
August 2008

Show Opening Party: August 9, 2008 / 3:00 pm - 8:30 pm
Suggested Attire: Lace or Beads

Private Showings to Serious Buyers Only by Appointment: August 1 through 8

Solstiss Show Open to the Public: August 10 - August 31

Santa Barbara Gap Fire Report

2008-07-03T22:11:00.000-07:00

I was in college when I experienced my first solar eclipse. I remember the unusual quality of daylight. A fire sky gives the same quality. Santa Barbara's, well really Santa Barbara's neighbor Goleta's Gap Fire is raging in the hills a few miles from our home. Fires chase winds down canyons on their run to the sea. Our home is Southeast of the fire and it is not at this time expected to head this way.

We are experiencing intermittent power outages. Wednesdays lasted the entire evening. We pulled out the candles, had a bottle of local Santa Barbara Pinot Noir by J. Wilkes Winery. We enjoyed conversation uninterrupted by urges to pull out our laptops, tv remote or even turn on the radio.

We held our Thursday evening sewing party as usual. One of my clients is working on her wedding dress muslin. I'm about half way through sewing the pleats of my skirt. I'm again very excited about my skirt. I should finish it this weekend.

Heading home, I should have taken a picture of the Arlington Theater steeple silhouetted against the fire sky. Smoke plumes now color it like a Maxfield Parrish painting. On the drive home, most traffic signals were out. Santa Barbara is full of tourists visiting for the 4th of July weekend, but everyone was very civil taking their turn in line at each street intersection. As I crested the hill on the corner of Constance and State, the fire came into view like lava flows running down the mountain.

Moseley was a fireman. He would have been working today. Moseley also loved solar eclipses. He would make travel plans to meet their totality. I just realized the connection today.

PIN-A-LOT

2008-06-29T15:50:00.000-07:00

Sewers are often afraid to work with shiny, slick or squirrelly fabric. They love the look of silk charmeuse, silk chiffon or a slinky knit, but are afraid to give it a try because, quite honestly, it does slip and slide. Some sewers will baste the fabrics together. That is probably the most reliable, but I do not enjoy basting. It is like filling a hole twice. Hand me a needle and thread, and I'll rush through the stitches as quickly as I can to move onto the next step. But, pinning, I love to pin. I think it is because whenever I am on a project that requires me to pin-a-lot, I think of Moseley.

Moseley was a maniac. In the rain, you could see him driving down the street, making the largest splash wave from his truck he possibly could. When he tested products for my designer husband, we would call it a submission to the "Moseley Destructo Test Facility". If it was physically possible to break something, Moseley would find a way. Then he would laugh. He always laughed.

When my husband and I felt stressed with business, or life, or just like we were having hard times, Moseley would call with just one word.... Jaaaa....laaaaa....maaaa. We would jump in the car, drive 1-1/2 hours north and meet him at the secluded surf beach. Somehow, whatever was causing the stress mattered no longer. That was Moseley's gift. He was a party animal, who made everyone else feel as if their life was one big party every time he was around.

My husband and I were in Paris when Moseley died. Our office called to give us the message that we were returning for his funeral. What a funeral it was. They had to open a side chapel at the Santa Barbara Mission to hold the overflow crowd. The Highway Patrol led a procession along Highway 101. On duty emergency personnel, firemen, paramedics and police, stood at attention at bridges along the way. I do believe Highway 101 was shut down for Moseley's procession.

Along the entire length of Gaviota Pier, firemen in full dress uniforms held their gloved hands to their head and saluted to Moseley, while on the beach a Shaman from the Chumash Indian Nation sent Moseley on his way through the Western Gate.

What I remember most of the entire event was when one of Moseley's pall bearers was tying the coffin to the back of his fire truck. My husband walked up to him and said, "If you can't tie a knot, tie-a-lot." At first the fireman looked angry at my husband, and then he smiled because we knew the code. Moseley had a lot of sayings and that was one.

When working with slippery fabric, it will slip and slide while basting too. So, the best thing to do is grab a whole box of silk pins. It is very important that they are silk pins, so as not to leave holes in fine fabric, and PIN-A-LOT.

Let It Go

2008-06-14T11:52:00.000-07:00

I am a project person. I must always do. In fact, I am happiest when doing multiple things at a time. I find rather prophetic the scene from "The Man Who Fell to Earth" when David Bowie is viewing a wall of televisions broadcasting in multiple languages at one time. It looks exactly like the multiple windows open on my computer screen. When someone says to me, don't you ever take time to just "relax", to just focus on yourself. To just be. I say, "why". There is much to much to do.

The upside of this psychological trait is that I do accomplish alot. There is also a funny side effect. I am "attached" to very little. Once it is done, I can very easily let it go. In fact, I rejoice in the mental click that goes off when I finish and task, and can move onto the next. There is always some other project or task that must be completed to fill the void.

The same is true with the fabrics we sell at FineFabrics.com. I am in love with each and every one. I personally pick each by hand, and can visualize exactly what I, or one of my clients might make out of each. When one sells out, I let out a little sigh, but I also rejoice because it is an opportunity to fill the void with another beautiful piece.

Yesterday, a very odd thing happened. 3-pieces walked out the door, all of which were on my list of "things to next make", two of which were part of current compositions underway. My skirt was widdled down to 1-3/4 yards of fabric. It clearly needs more.

I was dreaming about this skirt. It was elegant. It was casual. It had volume and depth. It was simple and complex. It had style. It was chic. I was excited about it. It was the most exciting thing I have made in, well, I can't remember how long. I was attached to it and the idea of wearing it, but I had to let it go.

Well, onto the next project!

Let the Fabric Speak

2008-06-10T14:49:00.000-07:00

I rarely draft my own patterns and drape garments even less. Pattern companies have done the job of thinking out the pattern piece relationships, general nuances of fit, and any number of details. It simply saves time and headache to manipulate patterns to my desired end. In this case, the fabric alone is dictating the outcome. To force it into a preconceived shape would not work, so here I am draping the pleated skirt. The inspiration for this garment is the fabric.

It is a patchwork of alternating large squares of cotton voile and muslin. They are sewn together in diamond squares. The selvage runs with the bias of the squares. It is a challenging piece with which to design. Until last week I saw it only as a big loose fitting coat, something like that in Eileen Fisher advertisements, or billowing curtains. Then, it screamed out to me that it wanted to be made into a skirt, but not just any skirt. It wanted to have its boxes manipulated into an interesting play of different sized diamond to box shapes.

So, I pulled out my pins and started to play with how it might respond to pleating. The result was a series of diamond shapes half the size of the original to form a fitted yoke that opens into the full size diamonds.

Then I decided to play with a horizontal side tuck on one seam to visually pull the diamonds to boxes along the hem. This resulted in shifting of the manipulated side seam from bias to straight grain. Along the hem, it shifts from bias to cross-grain, but I want to do this on only one side.

So, now I need to drape a muslin to test:

1) How I am going to keep the design clean around my hips.
2) What am I going to do with the side dip in the seam and peak to the front formed by the horizontal tucks?
3) What is the effect of the shift to bias on the lower right side seam? Will I have to mirror the side tucks on the back? Can I simply mirror the curve on the back side seam, or is this piece so uniquely constructed that it will break the rules and do what I want it to on the side if I keep the back 1/2 of this side seam straight on the bias?

Tag, I'm It

2008-06-02T15:57:00.000-07:00

I've been tagged for a Getting To Know You meme by Liana of Sew Intriguing aka Liana, Adminstrator of Artisanssquare, a very sophisticated sewing forum. I would not normally get so personal on MsFineFabrics, but if challenged, you must rise to the occasion.

What was I doing 10 years ago?
1. Managing exponential business growth at Force Fin - business #1
2. Entertaining alot - guests every weekend.
3. I am sure I was traveling, but cannot remember where that year.

What are 5 things on your to do list today?
1. Schedule Mom with Easy Lift for Visits to Fine Fabrics.
2. Bookkeeping for Fine Fabrics.
3. Answer interview questions posed to husband for article in Historical Diver
Magazine.
4. Send thank you note to Director of New York Museum of Modern Art for complementary lifetime memberships for artist/designer husband and myself.
5. Take remnants and fabrics sold out down from FineFabrics.com.

Snacks I enjoy - wonder from where my belly comes?
1. Bread, brie cheese and minced garlic
2. Nuts
3. Iced mocha made with non-fat milk, Italian semi-sweet chocolate and no sugar
4. Bread
5. Chocolate chip cookie

Things I would do if I were a billionaire...
Millionaires used to qualify for this question. Who says I am not...., in concept, at least. Same as I do now, but without the stress. Take a deep breath. Travel, at a wim. Buy property for store to exist permanently. Buy house for sale on beach for $29,000,000, or better yet, an island, that is high enough to still exist in 100 years, with plenty of fresh water and good soil. Learn to fly. Buy a farm in the heart of France. Invest more in DH's ship and energy projects. Entertain. Establish a foundation with world class Board to manage everything.

What type(s) of work have you done? A talk I gave to a graduating class of Santa Barbara's Women's Economic Venture Group best describes who I am professionally.

Peeps - I'll have to think about this one. I am new to blogs and I am still learning my way around. I will update later.

Infinity - The Limit of Design Interpretation

2008-05-28T17:30:00.000-07:00

Another example of how a classic design can be infinitely interpreted is the two dresses that were made using a very classic interpretation of the little black dress by Vera Wang for Vogue patterns. This is the base pattern that was used for the large format flower dress of "Smelling Silk and Roses".

Earlier we made the same dress in its formal length, with a bodice overlay of Solstiss Lace, embellished with tufts of tulle, silk habotai, silk charmeuse and pearls. The same base dress was made using an outerlayer of an iridescent silk that shimmers between indescribably beautiful shades of cream, light mustard and acid green, above a layer of autumn gold chiffon, to warm the value to better work with my autumn color profile, and cream heavy georgette to mirror all the colors in the bodice overlay: Two very different interpretations of the same design.

Vintage or.... Not.....

2008-05-22T18:31:00.000-07:00

They say that fashion constantly recycles itself, that there is nothing new to be done. I say with the infinite number of variables that can be used to make something, every project is a new interpretation. The best of those become classics. They appear again and again in new and updated ways. For example, this sheath with curved seam to create a flattering front panel appeared in this 1967 vintage pattern by Simplicity, to be offered again in 2000 by Oscar de la Renta for Vogue Patterns, and has shown up again by Prada as published by Branche & Business in their Fashion Trends Forecast for Winter 2008-2009, and again by Ms. Fine Fabrics in a tunic using this challenging piece of embellished silk.

The challenge of working with this fabric is to place it where it is comfortable. It cannot be sat upon. It will catch on purses, or anything that you brush against if worked into a sleeve. A collar or hem is too predictable, but an interesting shaped front panel. That can be quite elegant. When I saw this progression from 1967-2000-2008 of a curved seam front panel dress, I found this fabric's proper place.

I grabbed the last 3/4 yard remaining in our Santa Barbara Fabric Store and walked around the store holding it up next to everything to reveal its mate, a traditional African fabric cotton wax print made in the Ivory Coast. A perfect hippie inspired combination for a 1967 inspired tunic.

Smelling Silk and Roses

2008-04-16T20:15:00.001-07:00

I love the smell of silk, but when sewing, as in life, there is always a temptation to cut corners. To jump past the details of accomplishment and go for the results. I suppose there are times when it makes sense to do this, but when we stop and take the time to contemplate each step along the way, new discoveries and a better garment is made.

Take this fabulous piece of silk pique fabric screaming to be made into a very in-style shift for Summer 2008. It is silk. It is black and white. I will want it to stay a crisp black and white. I will most likely dry clean it. I could skip the pre-wash and dive right into cutting and sewing, but there may also be the day when I will want to retire it from dry cleaning bills. What did I discover as it was drying from the pre-wash I almost bypassed?

The print runs along the bias. The interval is wider when viewing along its length than when viewing along its width. Convention and sewing pattern instructions tell us to cut it lengthwise, with the grain. Had I not stopped and viewed the fabric while hanging on a clothesline, I would have labored over the lengthwise pattern that could never fit properly within the princess lines of the shift I plan to make. [Note for the future: Hang all prints and view them from different directions and study how they will best work with the garment design.]

When cut on the cross grain the narrower repeat of the pattern fits perfectly between the center front seams. The position of the bold print running from neckline to hem at the center front is key to its use. Cutting along the cross grain also lends itself to a couture trick of using the muslin made to fit the pattern as the pattern itself.

The muslin is a rough draft of the garment. It is not meant to be finished. Its primary purpose is to test the design and fit of the garment. Key fit points are marked on the muslin from the body and replace those of the pattern from which the muslin was cut.

In this case, the hip line is a very special demarcation. Above the hip, the seams of the garment are curved to the shape of the body. Below the hip, the seams are straight. that means they can be eliminated from the final garment and the print can run continuously around.

After fitting, the left side seam is opened, but all other seams are left intact below the hip line. Above the hip line, the seams become darts. The muslin pattern is laid on the fabric. When translated flat it looks something like a map that has been cut from a globe.

What had been a 4-piece pattern, with 7-distinct fabric pieces to sew together, is now a 1 piece pattern, with 1-seam and 5 darts. The print will run with interruption only on the left side seam from below the hip-line. The print is matched as well as it can be. As an added bonus, about 1/2 yard less fabric is required to make the garment than had it been cut with the lengthwise grain.